RAT Electric Bikes

I recently watch this YouTube video:
I Tested America’s Best Selling Ebike – Lectric XP4 750 Review

Matt‘s reviews are always great to watch, but in this particular video he made one comment about this e-bike that made me think more about a feature every ebike on the market today should include – but I’ll digress for a moment…

The thing is, when I ride I’m always in one of 3 (e-bike) modes.

Mode 1 – get to the trail, which usually includes some riding on busy streets. There I want power and speed (Class 3)

Mode 2 – I’m on the trail, and if allowed I’ll use throttle when necessary. I find throttles to be not only very useful, but also an essential safety feature. Municipalities that ban throttles most likely don’t include e-bike riders on the committees that make such decisions. Anyway, this mode drops the max speed from 28 to 20mph and is a Class 2 e-bike (considered under Federal and PA state law as a regular bicycle).

Mode 3 – Some trails that allow e-bikes don’t permit the use of throttles (PAS only). This is considered a Class 1 e-bike, also with a 20mph cap for power-assist delivered while pedaling.

So here’s that Lectric decided to do – keeping it simple AND legal. What a great idea! So on their display they have this setting (Bike Classification):

And within Bike Classification, you can dial in the class you want/need to ride for each of the modes listed above – genius (and simple)! Note: In California, “Class 3” refers to a specific type of electric bike (e-bike) that is pedal-assist only, with a maximum assisted speed of 28 mph.

But here’s another issue our Lectric e-bike rider might experience. Having set the Bike Classification appropriate for a given trail, the trial ‘police’ might still stop you and check out the Class-ification badge each e-bike is supposed to display – yeah, these things:

This is a conumdrum, but my solution (and recommendation) is to display the lowest class rating – in this case Class 1 750w 20mph which will be a get out of jail sticker for every occassion. You can tell the arresting officer I told you so… see how far that gets ya.

Keeping it simple (and legal) is a good thing for most e-bike riders, and I think Lectric has figured this out and provides a solution that works. Good on ya, Lectric!

Way back in 2022, I bought a Trek frame for $80 and built a nice e-bike using a Voilamart brushless, gearless 1000w motor.

Then over the years I built other e-bikes and basically relegated the bargain Trek frame to the dust bin. However, as e-bike builders soon discover, we have many spare parts lying around which could end up being part of a new ‘rat’ e-bike. And in this case, my ‘reborn’ creation is being called Frankie since it is truly a Frankenstein bike, brought back from the dead, using bits and pieces from several previous builds.

Here’s my starting point for this (re)build:

Then to get started I needed a few new items. And with a budget of $200 for new parts for the complete build I have so far spent ~$165. I’ll include a list of recycled and new parts below once the build is complete, but so far this is looking like a very inexpensive build (because I already own all the expensive stuff – frame, motor, wheels, brakes, front fork, battery, etc.).

Stay tuned as this build comes together…

PS – For simplicity (and expense), I’m starting out with a 14-tooth single-speed sprocket, tensioner and chain salvaged from my Red Rocket experiment. This might not last since all I need to buy is a new derailleur to go from single- to 7-speed, which is desirable for PA hills. But since I still own Red Rocket, having a single-speed in the stable seems like a good idea. Also, unlike Red Rocket, Frankie will have PAS. Again, one of the real benefits of DIY e-bikes is being able to try something, then improve/fix it as needed!

** update **

One of the more daunting parts of e-bike building and wire and cable management. With my Frankie build nearing 80% compete, here’s what I mean:

Cables, cables everywhere. What to do?

With a good storage bag and a bit of persuasion, this wire explosion finally looked like this:

Not bad! The controller and all wires find their final resting place here. I still need to connect and tuck the rear motor wires in once I get my bottom bracket and deal with chain alignment for the single-speed sprocket. After that, everything needs adjusting, tightening, then testing. There’s still some distance to run before this race is over, but just to show that real progress is being made, here’s this morning’s update (still at $165 for new parts – I’m very happy about that!):

It’s October 4 and behold my creation!

My only compromise was the omission of PAS. Turns out to get the proper chain alignment I had to resort to a bottom bracket (116mm) that doesn’t have sufficient left-side clearance for the PAS hardware. But based on the way I intend to use this bike, that’s really a non-issue. This is a bike first with throttle assist.

I have yet to take this one out for a test ride but will report how I feel about riding a single-speed versus gears.

** update **

This e-bike is amazing! No, I’m not converting my other bikes to single-speed because gears are useful, though “not necessary when you have enough power”. Yes, you can quote me on that point. Here’s how I justify it. When riding with gears (and a motor of course), you shift to maintain pedal cadence. This just makes sense and works well for e-bikes. But take away the option to sift gears and you maintain speed and cadence by adding power via the motor. It works and it’s actually fairly natural once you adapt.

And just to refresh your memory, here’s a picture of my Single-Speed Chain Tensioner installed:

** update **

Final cost: $189.74

Here’s a list of new items required to complete this build:

• Bottom Bracket 12
• Headset bearings 10
• Rear disc brake adapter 19
• Handlebar 25
• Adjustable stem 20
• Grips 9.50
• Seat post 14
• Seat post quick release 8
• Front wheel true 15
• Tires 40
• Cell phone holder 6.50

And many of the items I already had on hand that made this build so cost effective:

Frame, battery, motor and rear wheel, controller and display, controller bag, front wheel, tubes, rim strips and FlatOut, brake discs, calipers and cables, front fork, brake levers, crank, chain ring and pedals, single freewheel, tensioner and single-speed chain, center stand, fenders, seat, mirror, and bell. I’m sure there’s more, but that seems like a pretty good list to start with. I still can’t believe I had this much usable gear hanging around in boxes! Impressive…

So you just bought your nifty new e-bike and you’re making plans to ride it on your local trails. You researched your trail’s rules and you know bicycles are permitted, but are e-bikes allowed? And the answer is always “maybe, or maybe not” – it depends.

Initially, at the trail head you may be greeted with a sign that says something like this: “NO MOTOR VEHICLES”.

But don’t be overly concerned since this sign is intended to keep things like cars, motorcycles, ATVs, etc. off the trail. But this doesn’t mean you won’t be confronted by your friendly neighborhood ‘Karen‘ who insists it applies to e-bikes as well. But you can calmly and respectfully explain that Federal and State laws consider your e-bike to be a regular bicycle (assuming you’re riding a Class 1 or 2 e-bike – more on this in a moment), and if a bicycle can use this trail, you can too. Just see how that explanation flies – usually not well…

But here’s the rub. Many ill-informed municipalities instead feel the need to post signs that specifically prohibit e-bikes on their paths.

And these are usually unenforceable because they try to stretch their existing ordinances to include e-bikes within ‘vehicle’ or ‘recreation vehicle’ prohibitions. Class 1 and 2 e-bikes are NOT recreation ‘vehicles’. Then there are many trails that are explicitly Class 1 e-bike trails. Class 1 means pedal assist only, no throttle. But most e-bikes on the market have throttles pre-installed. In this case, you must either disable or remove your throttle before using these trails. Also, Class 1 and 2 e-bikes are capped at 20mph. so if you have taken steps to remove this limit, you’re no longer ‘legal’ on these trails.

So, let’s get personal. I have 6 e-bikes as I write this post. 5 are completely custom and 1 is a Class 2 factory bike. And considering what I just wrote about e-bikes being ‘legal’ on local trails, only 1 of mine is actually LEGAL (currently)! Is that a problem? Yes, it could be. But most likely if I’m obeying speed limits and stop signs, and behaving myself on the trails (as in, nobody is going to need to criticize my ‘trail etiquette‘), then all of my bikes should be acceptable (though still not technically legal). So let’s take inventory and see why most of my bikes aren’t legal:

1. Red Rocket – No PAS, throttle only, 1000 watt rear hub motor (legal e-bike motors are capped at 750 watts), speed unlocked to 28+ mph (not Class 1, 2, or 3 – too much power, no PAS)

No remedy – too powerful, too fast, no PAS

2. Blue Wave – PAS and throttle, 1000 watt mid-drive, speed unlocked (too much power)

Remedy – reprogram motor to 750 watts, restore max speed to 20mph – Class 2, or Class 1 with removable throttle just added

3. Fatty III – PAS plus throttle, 1000 watt rear hub motor, speed unlocked (ditto)

Remedy – reprogram motor to 750 watts, restore max speed to 20mph – Class 2, or Class 1 with removable throttle just added

4. Silver Fox – No PAS, throttle only, 500 watt rear hub motor – full suspension (should be able to pass as Class 2, but no PAS)

Remedy – add PAS – Class 2, or Class 1 with removable throttle just added

5. Himiway Cruiser (factory) – PAS, throttle, 750 watt rear hub motor (Class 2 locked at 20mph – totally legal, or Class 1 with removable throttle that comes standard with this bike)

This is the ‘removeable throttle’ added to #2, 3, and 4 which means each of these bikes can be made into legal Class 1 e-bikes in a matter of minutes as long as the other issues are addressed.

And a recent addition to my fleet:

6. Frankie – No PAS, throttle only, 1000 watt rear hub motor, speed unlocked to 28+ mph (not Class 1, 2, or 3)

No remedy – too powerful, too fast, no PAS

Here are the real issues for those who actually ride e-bikes (which often doesn’t include those making policy decisions):

• The e-bike demographic is tilted toward older people who probably wouldn’t be riding a bicycle at all if it didn’t provide assistance for hills.

• Many bicycle and e-bike riders don’t ride only on trails, but often need to ride on streets to get to their local trails. Being able to go faster than the normal trail limit of 15, or even 20mph in some cases, is often useful when riding on local streets.

• Pedal-assist simply isn’t enough for all situations, like starting out from a stop to cross a busy street, starting on a hill, etc. This is where throttles are not only useful but are an essential safety feature in my experience.

• E-bikes normally have wider tires with less tire pressure (2.4″ to 4″ is normal, and 20 to 60 lbs pressure). This makes riding an e-bike more comfortable and safer than riding with higher pressure, narrower tires.

• E-bikes are heavier and sturdier than regular bicycles so adding safety devices like mirrors, bells, lights, etc. is appropriate since overall weight isn’t usually as big a deal than it is with regular bicycles.

In closing, I’m going to put in a plug for the e-bike configuration I find most enjoyable to ride regularly and that includes my ‘throttle-only’ e-bikes. I like riding my e-bikes like regular bicycles, then supplement power as needed using the throttle. This way of riding isn’t every rider’s cup of tea, but it works for me. When you add PAS, then you’re always getting assistance which makes me work less and drains the battery more quickly – both negatives in my mind. And yeah, that means these throttle-only e-bikes are probably not entirely legal in most places. Bummer!

I live in Sellersville, PA and the only real ‘bike path’ in the area goes through the town of Perkasie and East Rockhill Township. Recently this sign went up at one of the entry points to the trail:

Before this, the only signs that were displayed anywhere read only ‘Motor Vehicles Prohibited’, which is fine because Federal and State law consider Class 1 and 2 electric bikes as regular bicycles, not ‘motor vehicles’. But this is different, and makes no sense at all.

So why would our local jurisdiction(s) do this? Here’s why (source):

“The Perkasie Borough Police Department has noticed a surge in reports concerning minors operating electric bicycles. Many parents are unaware that, according to Pennsylvania law, individuals must be at least 16 years old to legally ride an electric bike. It’s essential to note that electric bicycles are classified as vehicles in Pennsylvania and, as such, are subject to specific laws and regulations. Furthermore, their use is strictly prohibited within Perkasie Borough’s parks and bike paths.”

So let’s take this statement apart one piece at a time:

“Minors operating electric bicycles” – that’s definitely a thing that’s happening and needs to be better controlled. But will putting a sign up like this help – maybe?

“Electric bicycles are classified as vehicles in Pennsylvania” – no, they’re not!

E-bike use in Pennsylvania is primarily governed by Title 75 of the Pennsylvania Vehicle Code

• Pennsylvania Definition: An e-bike in Pennsylvania is a bicycle with an electric motor, max 750 watts, that is capable of propelling the bike up to 20 mph, and must have fully functional pedals. 
• Classification: E-bikes meeting these criteria are treated as bicycles under the law, not as motor vehicles. 

General Rules for E-Bikes

• Age: You must be at least 16 years old to operate an e-bike. 
• Registration & Licensing: No special license, registration, or insurance is required for e-bikes. 
• Road Use: E-bikes are permitted on roads and bike lanes, and riders must obey all traffic laws, the same as cyclists. 

“Their use is strictly prohibited within Perkasie Borough’s parks and bike paths” – because they say so. There is no other good rationale, except to keep renegade kids off the trails. AND there is no supporting ordinance to back this up!

And finally, Perkasie includes a link (E-Bikes in PA) in their message to the DCNR recreation page which states:

“E-bikes are allowed on trails already open to traditional bicycle usage as long as users follow guidelines consistent with the Pennsylvania Vehicle Code that e-bikes:

• Weigh no more than 100 pounds
• Do not exceed 20 miles-per-hour using the motor
• Have motors that do not exceed 750 watts
• Have fully functional, operable pedals

E-bikes can be used on DCNR-managed trails where traditional bikes are allowed.”

So what’s really going on here? Kids! They’re doing what kids have always done, but now with new, more powerful equipment, and in congested areas where people and pets are in danger. Kids have parents, and this really is a parenting problem first and foremost.

So what’s to be done about it? NOT, and I repeat, NOT a ban on responsible individuals riding electric pikes on trails where federal and state laws permit it. That’s just dumb and short-sighted. What I propose first is going back to the original “No Motor Vehicles” signage. That is intended to keep ALL ‘vehicles’ off the trail that don’t comply with federal and state laws. And maybe a brief explanation of what those laws state should be included on these signs to better inform.

Second, create a voluntary safety training and registration process for responsible electric bicycle owners. Once registered, permission to use local trails will be granted so long as the rider operates equipment covered by federal and state law AND obeys all applicable laws when operating on trails and streets. This is essentially a get out of jail free card while operating an e-bike in a place they should be able to legally ride anyway.

Third, impound EVERY e-bike that is operating illegally on streets and trails, and fine the parents when it involves a minor. Every parent will claim they didn’t know about the law and that they had no idea their lovely child was doing such lawless things with their new toy. Don’t buy the excuses. This stuff is all over the news so they ARE aware…

Fourth, get responsible riders back on the bike paths in Perkasie and surrounding areas. MOST riders are responsible and I dare say most e-bike riders ride slower than their non-motorized counterparts. Many of us even ride without power most of the time because the trials are flat and don’t require the extra power. Question: If I’m riding an e-bike with Power Off, am I still riding an e-bike? Probably yes, but I asked this to a guy who was doing exactly this and he claimed he was OK on the trail because he had power turned off. Interesting…

The other reason for keeping responsible e-bikes on the path is for safety. More trail users make for a safer trail for everyone. We look out for each other, interact with each other, and can respond quickly if there’s an issue.

And finally, everyone, regardless of conveyance should act safely and responsibly. I propose an informal and voluntary safety classification for bicycle and e-bike riders where riders can get some medical response training and understand all the rules of the road so they can coach others on safe practices if they see someone doing something crazy and unsafe. When training is complete, not only can these individuals use bike paths that might otherwise be restricted, but they would also receive a reflective vest they would be expected to wear at all times on the trail. This would give others the confidence that these people are supposed to be here and they can request assistance if desired. I think this would be a welcome thing if it meant trails in the area are no longer off limits, and participants could be of service to their community as well.

I’m going to stop here. I’m REALLY bothered by dumb knee-jerk reactions to kids being stupid on these mini pocket rockets, and their clueless parents. But the onus is on Perkasie and East Rockhill administration to figure out how to deal with the real problem while not penalizing the 98% of us that are doing nothing wrong or illegal. And they’re not alone. Many communities are trying to deal with this same issue, so I understand. But let’s think this through and come up with some better solutions.

** Update **

Remember that picture I showed at the beginning of this post? The one that says “E-Bikes…Prohibited”? Yeah, that one. Well now there are 3 signs in total, all in East Rockhill Township. However, this is interesting because East Rockhill Township doesn’t have an ordinance that addresses e-bikes specifically. Their Ordinance § 15-1202 addresses “recreational vehicles” which they seem to want to apply to e-bikes as well. The ordinance includes examples of recreational vehicles (which includes neither bicycles nor electric bicycles) and goes on to say: “Recreational vehicles shall not be operated on any sidewalk or within the right-of-way of any public or private street being maintained or used as a thoroughfare for legally licensed vehicular traffic unless the operator has a valid operator’s license and the recreational vehicle is properly registered and licensed with the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania as a motor vehicle.”

So by East Rockhill grouping e-bikes into the ‘recreational vehicle’ category, e-bikes are not legally permitted to operate on trails OR public roads. So you see the issue here, not just for the inconvenience to the e-bike owner, but for the enforceability of the ordinance and associated signage? Since federal and state law consider Class 1 and 2 e-bikes to be bicycles, by definition they fall outside the ‘recreation vehicle’ category and must be considered legal on these trails regardless of the signage.

And for that matter, Perkasie has similar rules about ‘vehicles‘, and by grouping e-bikes under this heading feel they can exclude vehicles of ANY type from using their trails. They haven’t posted signs as East Rockhill has, but the police CrimeWatch site states specifically that e-bikes are considerd ‘vehicles’ and are thereby restricted from using Perkasie trails. Here again, I have a hard time believing that they can actually enforce their rules unless someone on an e-bike is doing something blatently stupid or illegal (remember, ‘bicycles’ are held to the same standard as other vehicles on the road and can be cited for breaking vehicular traffic laws).

** update – Doylestown figured this out and is doing it right! **

A few years ago, while living in the Doylestown, PA area, I attended a few Bike and Hike Committee meetings (Meetings are held on the 3rd Tuesday of each month at 8:00 am in the Caucus Room at the Doylestown Township Municipal Building). At the time there was growing interest in dealing with the surge of electric bicycles, as well as other electric conveyances like electric skateboards, scooters, one-wheels, Segways, etc. The result was a revised ordinance published in 2023 for the Bucks County Parks System entitled Ordinance No. 170 as well as ongoing work on a Doylestown Township draft “Trail User Code“. Excerpts from both follow:

ORDINANCE NO. 170 – Enacted January 18, 2023

S7 Operation of Bicycles, E-bikes, and E-scooters

And the Doylestown Township draft “Trail User Code”

Other useful information:

And https://thecyclistchoice.com/resources/pennsylvania-ebike-laws/

Welcome back! Maybe you had a chance to read my previous post, A Perfect Lady’s E-Bike!. If so, I want to now describe the difference, in my mind, between a ‘lady’s e-bike’ and a ‘man’s e-bike’. But before I begin, I know there will be little agreement out there from either side about the merits of my argument. But I’m going to do it anyway:

A lady’s e-bike should be:

• uncomplicated (simple to operate)
• attractive (easy on the eyes)
• light-weight (55 lbs or less w/ battery)
• reliable (good components)
• comfortable (cushy seat, good handlebar position, comfortable grips)

And a man’s e-bike should be:

• well-constructed (good weld joints and structural integrity are important)
• funtional (good power and well-designed controls)
• not too heavy (75 lbs or less)
• good range (60 miles on a charge minimum)
• wider tires (maybe even fat-tire, but nothing less than 2.4″)

We can agree to disagree, but I’m starting here. And perhaps I should explain why I’m even talking about this. Well, a friend has asked me to sell his e-bike, and when I received it I thought immediately that this IS a guy’s e-bike. Not only that, but the PERFECT guy’s e-bike!

Introducing the Electra Vale Go! 9D EQ which retails for $3550, but can be purchased new for $2400, or used for about $1400. When researching this e-bike, I believe this bike is a phenomenal value at $2400, let alone a steal in the $1400 range, if you can even find one with low miles for that price. OK, so let’s get back on topic and explain why this is a guy’s e-bike.

• build quality is exceptional
• components are all high quality
• every detail has been thought thru and executed well (as you’ll see in the pictures below)
  • Bosch mid-drive motor (this is a $1000 part all by itself)
  • high-quality removable battery and good range (max. range is 75 miles)
  • informative removable display (easily remove the display when parked to discourage thieves)
  • high-grade puncture-resistant tires with Tannus Armour liners (installed on this bike)

I’ll stop there and let the following images speak for themselves. But before doing that, I would not expect many female riders to really care much about some of this bike’s attributes. But I, being a guy think things like puncture proof tires, a removable display and kind of information available on the display, build quality and high-end components are really important, and this bike has all that.

Now for the pictures and specs you have all been waiting for:

Suspension seat post and remote-controlled anti-theft alarm

RockBros cell phone holder and bell

Tannus Armour no-flat liners installed

I’m not trying to be sexist, but in my experience men either go for bikes with a top bar (not step-thru) or a step-thru with 20″ wheels, often of the fold-bike variety. Women often like something that resembles a real bicycle (larger diameter tires) and step-thru, not step-over, AND light-weight. Also, simplicity when it comes to design and controls. Guys seem to revel in complexity, and more bells and whistles are OK. SO, if I haven’t overdone the stereotyping, I’d like to present THE PERFECT LADY’S E-BIKE: [drum roll please]

Introducing the *Class 1 Momentum Lafree E+ Hybrid e-bike.

What makes THIS bike so special is that it’s SO SIMPLE to operate. The secret sauce is this:

No display to distract, just a simple control. Press one button to start. Press another pair to adjust pedal assist levels up or down, OR press and hold either pedal assist button for a couple seconds and everything else is ‘automatic’. The computer figures out what pedal assist level is best and you don’t need to do anything else except pedal.

This e-bike uses a technology called ‘torque sensing’ where the more work you put into pedaling, the more power that’s delivered to the rear wheel via the mid-drive motor, which is the other ingredient in the secret sauce.

This is the $700 mid-drive Yamaha motor. This is amazing tech you won’t find on any budget e-bikes, but the $2400 Momentum has it, and boy does it make a difference! This motor is smooth and predictable, and the 250 watt motor is powerful enough for most riders. Perfect in every way for someone who doesn’t care how sausage is made, but just wants to enjoy the meal.

Put all this together with a good 8-speed derailleur, good hydrologic breaks, good battery life, and a well-crafted step-thru frame with a spectaular paint job (I call this color ‘Mazda’ red), and you have an e-bike that is best in class for this demographic.

Note: The bike shown above is a slightly used 2022 Momentum Lafree E+ with a ‘small’ frame I have on consignment and which should fetch ~$1200 in the resale market considering its condition and the quality of materials. This is just a really great e-bike looking for a new owner that appreciates quality, but doesn’t necessarily want (or need) all the bells and whistles that so many e-bikes have these days.

Here are some more photos and specs to satisfy your curiosity:

These act as turn signals and/or caution lights with control from the handlebar.

Theft alarm, detects motion and is VERY loud. Control via key fob.

*”Class 1 electric bicycle” means an electric bicycle equipped with a motor that provides assistance only when the rider is pedaling and that ceases to provide assistance when the electric bicycle reaches the speed of 20 miles per hour.

PS – What’s ANT+ you might ask? ANT+ is a wireless technology similar to Bluetooth, primarily used for sport and fitness applications to connect devices and share data. Well is just so happens that the LaFree E+ controller supports ANT+ which allows your smartphone to interact with your e-bike and capture data like cadence, speed, power, etc. via a free app like IpBike. Since the Lafree doesn’t have a display of its own, this is a great option if having this information at your fingertips is important.

Add-ons list:

• ROCKBROS Bike Phone Holder ($15)
• MTB Bike Pedals ($21.50)
• Bike Alarm ($19)
• Turn Signals ($20)
• Handlebar Bike Mirror ($17)

$98.05 w/ tax

Here’s a picture of Red Rocket (RR) before surgery:

RR has a 48v 1000w Voilamart brushless, gearless motor driving the rear wheel and a 50-tooth narrow-wide chainring driving a 7-speed freewheel. With all that power and speed, I thought it might be interesting to convert RR to a single-speed. Also, I never put PAS on this bike, so it’s pedal power or throttle only, which works fine for this bike.

So, a couple things to think about when executing this conversion. First, freewheel removal. Turns out this ebike, like most, has a rather thick ( ) rear axle. This means the freewheel removal tool center opening needs to be wider than this – most aren’t.

I bought this freewheel removal tool on Amazon and it works perfectly.

With the freewheel removed, now it’s time to deal with single-speed freewheel selection and associated chain alignment. I initially selected a ‘BMX style freewheel‘ which was a mistake. Nice sprocket, but it sits way too close to the motor housing and there’s no way to correctly align the sprocket with the front chainring. To fix the alignment problem, I ordered this threaded freewheel hub from Amazon.

And even though RR doesn’t have rear suspension, I’m a fan of chain tensioners, so will use this tensioner ordered from AliExpress.

And a single-speed chain from Amazon. Someday I’ll understand how a single-speed chain differs from a 7/8-speed chain, but for now I accept that they’re different and I should just go with the one designed for this application. The 1/2”×1/8” ZONKIE single-speed chain replaces 1/2″x3/32″ 7-speed chain. Always learning – that’s my moto…

Looks like every other chain to me.

Once the parts arrive and have been installed and tested, I’ll post post-surgery pics and first impressions here. And, just ’cause it makes sense to do it, I’m upgrading RR’s brakes to hydraulic using the Juin Tech-M1 Electric Bike Disc Brake kit I’m running on the Himiway Cruiser and on my latest Northrock (Fatty III) build. I love these brakes and the fact that they can be installed in a cable brake system makes them a fantastic mechanical disc brake replacement option. Here’s what’s included in the kit from AliExpress, which is also ‘in the mail’.

Post-surgery pics as promised:

But first, pre-surgery – 7-speed freewheel cluster and derailleur

And after, with 14-tooth threaded freewheel hub, tensioner, and 1/2”×1/8” single-speed chain

Really cleans things up back there! And as mentioned previously, I could probably eliminate the tensioner as well, but I’ll go with this for now, and maybe go tensioner-less as a test at some point. Also here’s a side view running a 50-tooth front chainring. The only minor compromise I made, which isn’t really a big deal at all (fortunately*), is that I had to move the front chainring inboard on its mount (*which gives me about 1/16″ clearance next to the chain stay – not much but enough).

And, while my bike was in surgery, it also got its new pair of Juin Tech M1 hydraulic brakes installed – sweet! In this image, they’re installed but not yet dialed in. Didn’t have time to get everything prepped yet for a test ride. Just too busy these days…

I can’t speak too highly about my Juin Techs. These are incredible brakes, and at ~$130 for a pair, which includes fresh discs, I think that’s a fair price for what you get.

**

I don’t know if I had mentioned this before, but as an e-bike ‘builder’, I’m always thinking about ways to improve my builds, and after much thought about my single-speed mod on Red Rocket I decided that mod isn’t at all appropriate for our Pennsylvania hills and the kind of riding I do, so my latest ‘improvement’ was to return to a 7-speed freewheel, chain, and derailleur. Here’s an image of the aftermath:

I think this will be a much more satisfying arrangement. And I’m also adding some axle torque protection this time. Not that it’s really needed, but this motor puts out a lot of torque and the last thing I want is to spin the axle. Hasn’t happened yet, but I know it’s a possibility. Keep your axle bolts tight and you shouldn’t have a problem. Let them loosen up and you will have a problem with the more powerful hub motors on the market. You have been warned…

The Fold 1 might look like a toy, but it’s anything but.

Here’s what you get for a paltry $1149:

And it folds up into nothingness to fit into the boot of your car:

I like everything about this e-bike, except maybe I would have preferred torque sensing over the cadence sensing pedal assist provided with the Fold 1. That said, I have cadence sensing on my Himiway Cruiser and I really like it. Still, many, especially new riders, might find torque sensing to be more forgiving and a bit more natural.

So if you’re in the market for a small-ish size, folding e-bike, the Fold 1 is an amazing bike and value! And if you don’t believe me, the maybe you’ll want to check out John Bozick‘s review here: Velotric Fold 1 Review, 2024 | Cheap Junk or Awesome Value?

Spoiler alert – John writes:

“We loved the Electric Blue color of our test bike, and we think the Fold 1 is one of the best-looking folding e-bikes we’ve tested. In most cases, its performance was equally impressive. The bike’s Speed, Range, and Brake test results were particularly notable, with ideal – and sometimes groundbreaking – results. In terms of its foldability, it was largely effective despite some hiccups with the latch mechanism. And finally, its ride quality was first-rate when compared to other folding e-bikes we have tested.”

PS – If you haven’t already seen this, I wrote a post recently about the ‘perfect’ e-bike rack for your Fold 1 e-bike here: https://ratelectricbike.com/?p=973

It’s the Thule EasyFold XT 2-Bike Hitch Rack which can be purchased at REI for the low, low price of $850. Yeah, that’s a lot of money, but there’s no better rack for your Fold 1 than this!

Another rack to consider for this e-bike:

Kuat’s NV Base 2-bike hitch rack for $800.

A while ago I reported on the unboxing and initial setup of Fatty III (here). We’ll, this morning I decided to jump into the build-out investment by purchasing a Bafang 1000w G062 rear-hub motor (here), as well as some other necessary components (7-speed cassette, kick stand, grips, rim tape, top tube bag…). Also, for this build I’m going to use a battery and battery mount I already own, so no additional investment there. And when all is said and done, Fatty III will morph from this:

To this (hopefully)!

Time will tell, since I expect this build will take 3-4 weeks to complete (complete by the 1st or 2nd week of October). I’ll be sure to post images of the final product here when it’s fully baked.

PS – One important change I’m going to make with this build is the addition of Juintech M1 hydraulic calipers which I had added recently to my Himiway Cruiser and really like! The cool thing about these hycraulic calipers is that they use the existing brake cables and levers, so are really easy to retrofit into an existing mechanical disk brake system.

Day 0

As with every e-bike build, you need to start with a clean slate. Here’s my Northrock undressed and ready for a complete make-over:

Day 1

Got my new rear wheel dished since the original wheel is offset (to the brake side) on this bike. Also mounted new tires that replace the original knobbies, upgraded the pedals, and installed new disks that came with the Juin M1 brakes. And as mentioned above, the rear wheel was built around a Bafang 1000w G062 rear-hub motor with a Shimano 7-speed cassette. Note: When installing the 7-speed cassette on a custom build, it’s important to be precise in spacing the cassette away from the hub/motor and away from the chain stay/rear axle holders. Be precise with your measurements and spacing (add shims and washers as needed) and you’ll be fine. Here’s my Day 1 progress:

Day 2

Most components have been installed, but what remains is wire management and finishing touches, and tuning – meaning the bike needs to actually work. Here’s an image of my Day 2 progress:

Lots of new bits have been added, making this almost look like a functioning e-bike, but there’s a whole ‘nother day to go before this black horse moves out of the stable, ready to run…

Day 3 – and a couple weeks later

Everything is installed and we’re ready for testing. So what can go wrong? Well, for starters, the bike won’t ‘start’. After contacting the supplier, and after a bit of swapping parts with another 1000 watt e-bike in the stable, it was determined that Fatty III has a bad display. And supposedly there’s a replacement being shipped to me as I write this. I say supposedly because nothing is certain when dealing with Chinese parts suppliers. I got a text message that ‘something’ is being sent from Jamaica, NY, but the message doesn’t say what, and although the message appears ‘scammy’ I have to believe that my new display is in the mail and will arrive in 12 days. That’s right, Jamaica is 95 miles away and the package will take 12 days to arrive???

So, while we’re waiting, here’s the image you have all been waiting for – Fatty III in all its glory!

And handlebar management – mirror, grips, brake levers, throttle, touch pad, alarm fob, display, bell, shifter, etc. – lots going on here.

And the controller’s stowed in the top tube bag, the suspension seat post has a neoprene cover. And the tail light, alarm, street tire tread, and my comfy Bikeroo saddle are also shown here.

Then there’s the Juin Tech hydraulic brake caliper (what a great invention) and rotor and replacement kick stand are shown here, with the 1000 watt Bafang G062 engine tucked in behind. By the way, other than my minor issue with the display, I’m very impressed by this kit (BAFANG G062 48V 1000W Motor Fat Wheel Ebike Conversion Kit 26×4.0″ Rear Cassette Drop Out 175mm, with 860C Display). Note: The price from this supplier has increase more than $100 since I purchased my kit early September (about a month ago)…

And the other thing I know you’re going to ask is HOW MUCH DID THIS BUILD COST? Well, let me repeat a statement I often make in my e-bike classes and that is “Building an e-bike does NOT save money.” In fact, it’ll often cost more to build than it will to buy a pre-built factory e-bike with similar components. OK, so how much did it really cost? The answer, $1700 (before tax). $1800 with PA sales tax.

Note: Final parts links appear at the end of this post.

Question: Is this build worth $1800? And the unequivocal answer is, YES! And here are a few reasons:

1. This build is exactly what I want – no compromises.
2. Should any part fail, every part is available on the internet and can be replaced for a reasonable price and for years to come. Replacement parts for ‘proprietary factory’ bikes often cost more, may be out of stock, or might be unavailable after a few years.
3. I can upgrade/replace any part, any time, which I do. All my bikes get tweaked often…
4. I always learn new things when I build, and I know my bikes intimately. Brakes, cables, derailleur, you name it – you built it and you know how to fix it. I think this is important since e-bikes, and bikes in general, need maintenance.

And then the downside(s):

After the build is done, you own it and if something stops working, it’s your problem. There really is no warranty. But when you buy a factory bike, you’re usually covered for a couple years. For many, this is important. Something breaks, take it to the shop. Also, your e-bike’s safety is your responsibility. You built if with your tools, and if you didn’t tighten something properly (handlebar stem bolts, rear axle bolts, etc.) you could be in serious doodoo. Pay attention to details, check every nut and bolt twice (at a minimum).

So that’s it. With the new display ‘in the mail’, Fatty III will be ready to launch. Now my only problem is deciding which bike to ride. And I have to admit, this is a nice problem to have!

A current family photo:

Final parts links:

• Bike
• Motor kit
• Battery
• Brake kit
• Tires
• Seat post
• Dish wheel
• Top tub bag
• Cassette
• Pedals
• Adj. stem
• Kick stand
• Alarm
• Lights
• Fenders
• Seat
• Shim
• Bell
• Mirror
• Flat-Out
• Rim strip
• Grips

Maybe you’re not one of those e-bike nerds (which I am) that owns a fancy-dancy e-bike battery charger that let’s you adjust the charging current and percent charge (which I do). So the question is, if I don’t really want to charge my e-bike battery to 100% every time (which is bad – for your battery), how do I know how long to keep my battery on the charger if I only want to charge to 80%, for example? Great question, and I’m glad you asked!

For the answer, I’m going to discuss the ‘easy’ way to do this, which will get you in the ball-park. For this example, I’m going to use my 48 Volt (V) 18 Amp-hour (Ah) Hailong e-bike battery recently purchased from Amazon.

Let’s begin by calculating the total Watt-hours (Wh) for this battery: Ah x V=Wh

18Ah x 48V = 864Wh

So, when I finished my last ride, the display was showing 2 bars on a 5 bar scale, so I know I have approximately 40% SOC (state of charge) remaining in the battery. (note: each bar on a 5-bar scale represents about 20% SOC)

Now I need to know what my charger’s output is in Watts (without looking at the back of the charger where it’s posted). This is easy: Volts x Amps = Watts

And since I know my battery is 48 Volts and the charger is rated at 3 Amps (yes, you might actually have to look for this number on the back of your charger), then I can calculate this charger’s Wattage to be 144 Watts.

Then by dividing my battery’s Watt-hours by my charger’s Watts , I can figure the total time it would likely take to fully charge my battery from 0-100% (which is never a good idea). In my case, dividing 864Wh by 144W says this operation would take approximately 6 hours. But if I still have 40% SOC in my battery and only want to charge to 80% SOC, I’m going to have to do a little more math.

So, if 40% of 864 is 346, and 80% of 864 is 691, and the difference between the two is 345Wh. Divide this number by 144W and you’ll get something like 2.4 hours to charge to 80% from a 40% SOC.

Now that wasn’t really that difficult, was it? And we all know that always charging our e-bike batteries to 100% is just not a good practice if one cares at all about battery longevity (which I do). So putting a bit of effort into running these calculations for your battery a) is a good brain exercise, and b) should improve your battery’s longevity significantly! I often use the following chart in my e-bike classes to demonstrate this point:

Useful (charge/discharge) cycles is a measure of battery longevity, and using this image as a guide, your battery could have a useful life 3+ times longer by charging only to 80% versus 100%. And this is a good thing for the planet and for your pocketbook!

** Update **

To simplify the math for y’all, I created this very cool Excel spreadsheet. Go to this link to download it:

https://ratelectricbike.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Battery-Chg-Calc.xlsx

When you download the spreadsheet, you’ll be able change any of the relevant parameters to recalculate ‘time-to-charge’ in hours:

In this example, I’m using my 48 volt 18 amp-hour battery with the factory 3 amp charger. Change any or all of these values and the time-to-charge will change. Enjoy!