A while ago I reported on the unboxing and initial setup of Fatty III (here). We’ll, this morning I decided to jump into the build-out investment by purchasing a Bafang 1000w G062 rear-hub motor (here), as well as some other necessary components (7-speed cassette, kick stand, grips, rim tape, top tube bag…). Also, for this build I’m going to use a battery and battery mount I already own, so no additional investment there. And when all is said and done, Fatty III will morph from this:
To this (hopefully)!
Time will tell, since I expect this build will take 3-4 weeks to complete (complete by the 1st or 2nd week of October). I’ll be sure to post images of the final product here when it’s fully baked.
PS – One important change I’m going to make with this build is the addition of Juintech M1 hydraulic calipers which I had added recently to my Himiway Cruiser and really like! The cool thing about these hycraulic calipers is that they use the existing brake cables and levers, so are really easy to retrofit into an existing mechanical disk brake system.
Day 0
As with every e-bike build, you need to start with a clean slate. Here’s my Northrock undressed and ready for a complete make-over:
Day 1
Got my new rear wheel dished since the original wheel is offset (to the brake side) on this bike. Also mounted new tires that replace the original knobbies, upgraded the pedals, and installed new disks that came with the Juin M1 brakes. And as mentioned above, the rear wheel was built around a Bafang 1000w G062 rear-hub motor with a Shimano 7-speed cassette. Note: When installing the 7-speed cassette on a custom build, it’s important to be precise in spacing the cassette away from the hub/motor and away from the chain stay/rear axle holders. Be precise with your measurements and spacing (add shims and washers as needed) and you’ll be fine. Here’s my Day 1 progress:
Day 2
Most components have been installed, but what remains is wire management and finishing touches, and tuning – meaning the bike needs to actually work. Here’s an image of my Day 2 progress:
Lots of new bits have been added, making this almost look like a functioning e-bike, but there’s a whole ‘nother day to go before this black horse moves out of the stable, ready to run…
Day 3 – and a couple weeks later
Everything is installed and we’re ready for testing. So what can go wrong? Well, for starters, the bike won’t ‘start’. After contacting the supplier, and after a bit of swapping parts with another 1000 watt e-bike in the stable, it was determined that Fatty III has a bad display. And supposedly there’s a replacement being shipped to me as I write this. I say supposedly because nothing is certain when dealing with Chinese parts suppliers. I got a text message that ‘something’ is being sent from Jamaica, NY, but the message doesn’t say what, and although the message appears ‘scammy’ I have to believe that my new display is in the mail and will arrive in 12 days. That’s right, Jamaica is 95 miles away and the package will take 12 days to arrive???
So, while we’re waiting, here’s the image you have all been waiting for – Fatty III in all its glory!
And handlebar management – mirror, grips, brake levers, throttle, touch pad, alarm fob, display, bell, shifter, etc. – lots going on here.
And the controller’s stowed in the top tube bag, the suspension seat post has a neoprene cover. And the tail light, alarm, street tire tread, and my comfy Bikeroo saddle are also shown here.
Then there’s the Juin Tech hydraulic brake caliper (what a great invention) and rotor and replacement kick stand are shown here, with the 1000 watt Bafang G062 engine tucked in behind. By the way, other than my minor issue with the display, I’m very impressed by this kit (BAFANG G062 48V 1000W Motor Fat Wheel Ebike Conversion Kit 26×4.0″ Rear Cassette Drop Out 175mm, with 860C Display). Note: The price from this supplier has increase more than $100 since I purchased my kit early September (about a month ago)…
And the other thing I know you’re going to ask is HOW MUCH DID THIS BUILD COST? Well, let me repeat a statement I often make in my e-bike classes and that is “Building an e-bike does NOT save money.” In fact, it’ll often cost more to build than it will to buy a pre-built factory e-bike with similar components. OK, so how much did it really cost? The answer, $1700 (before tax). $1800 with PA sales tax.
Note: Final parts links appear at the end of this post.
Question: Is this build worth $1800? And the unequivocal answer is, YES! And here are a few reasons:
- This build is exactly what I want – no compromises.
- Should any part fail, every part is available on the internet and can be replaced for a reasonable price and for years to come. Replacement parts for ‘proprietary factory’ bikes often cost more, may be out of stock, or might be unavailable after a few years.
- I can upgrade/replace any part, any time, which I do. All my bikes get tweaked often…
- I always learn new things when I build, and I know my bikes intimately. Brakes, cables, derailleur, you name it – you built it and you know how to fix it. I think this is important since e-bikes, and bikes in general, need maintenance.
And then the downside(s):
After the build is done, you own it and if something stops working, it’s your problem. There really is no warranty. But when you buy a factory bike, you’re usually covered for a couple years. For many, this is important. Something breaks, take it to the shop. Also, your e-bike’s safety is your responsibility. You built if with your tools, and if you didn’t tighten something properly (handlebar stem bolts, rear axle bolts, etc.) you could be in serious doodoo. Pay attention to details, check every nut and bolt twice (at a minimum).
So that’s it. With the new display ‘in the mail’, Fatty III will be ready to launch. Now my only problem is deciding which bike to ride. And I have to admit, this is a nice problem to have!
A current family photo:
Final parts links: