I know, you’re thinking “I have ridden bicycles all my life, and once you learn to ride a bicycle, you never forget.” Well I’m here to tell you, depending on how your e-bike is configured, you might need to learn a few new tricks. In this post I’m going to talk about PAS (pedal assist system) and throttles. Let’s start with pedal-assist.
Pedal Assist
Pedal assist on an e-bike means when you start pedaling, the electric motor starts adding power to the rear wheel. However, this added power might be instantaneous or delayed. This matters because you need to anticipate this additional power or the lack thereof when starting out. Add to this reality the PAS level you have set (if you even have the ability to set it). Let’s say I have a 5-level PAS system and I’m at level 1. In this case, you are going to add more pedal power to get going from a stop. Or, let’s say I have been riding along at level 5 for a bit and come to a stop. In this case, if you forgot you were at level 5 and start out, you might be in for a shock as your bicycle launches itself across the intersection.
I’m being a bit dramatic in this example, but suffice to say that when riding an e-bike you need to know how your system works, stay alert, and use the setting(s) appropriate for a given situation. I have also resorted to walking, not riding, my e-bike across crosswalks. Too many times I tried to start out by pedaling and the motor takes over and I end up careening across the intersection. It’s MUCH safer and predictable to just walk across, then get back on your bike on the other side (after dialing in the correct PAS setting).
That’s all I’m going to say about PAS. I’m getting used to how PAS works and I like the concept, but it has taken a while to learn how to set it so it’s more of an assist than a nuisance (or danger).
Throttles
Next, let’s talk about throttles. I’m a left-hand thumb throttle, versus a right-hand wrist throttle kind of guy. Granted, as an ex-motorcycle rider, you would think traditional wrist throttles would be preferred. But with bicycles, I put more of my weight on my wrists and hand-grips and having a wrist throttle can be problematic. I’d rather rest my hands on the hand-grips and use my thumb to increase or decrease power as needed. However, if you tend to sit more upright when pedaling your bicycle, then the right-hand twist throttle just might be your cat’s meow.
As mentioned in a previous post, one might ride a rear hub e-bike a little more like a motorcycle (more throttle, less pedal power), and a mid drive e-bike more like a bicycle (more pedal, less throttle power). At least that’s exactly what I’m finding when I ride either bike. On the mid drive e-bike, I rarely use the throttle and tend to adjust the PAS system for a given riding condition and plan to pedal more. Yet on the rear hub e-bike, I do less gear changing and supplement my pedal power with power from the electric motor.
Neither throttle design is better or worse than the other, just different, but it’s something to consider when renting, buying, or building an e-bike.