Build #3, Test Drive 2

Just a reminder, Build #3 is my first mid-drive build, which I embarked on largely based on JohnnyNerdOut’s recommendation. Johnny recently released a YouTube video that describes the difference between rear hub and mid-drive systems, and why you should care. Check this out before continuing: Hub motor or Mid Drive Motor Buyers Guide : Which system is right for you? OK, now that you watched his video, you’ll understand what comes next.

As mentioned previously, Build #3 uses the Bafang mid-drive system. Here’s a picture of what that system looks like in its final incarnation:

9-tooth rear cassette, Lekkie 46 tooth NW Bling Ring, and KMC X9 116-link chain with original rear derailleur

Once you have sorted everything out – correct chainring, proper chain line alignment, proper chain, and a quality shifter* – you’re ready for a test ride. First, let me say that you don’t ride a mid-drive e-bike the same way you ride a rear hub bike. Like Johnny says, ‘ride a mid-drive e-bike like you would a regular bike’. This means changing gears when necessary to minimize stress on the chain, cassette, rear derailleur components, and the motor itself. In comparison, a rear-hub system can handle a little more abuse (aka less shifting) since it’s not loading the chain and rear derailleur/gears.

*Note: I couldn’t find a ‘quality’ 9-speed shifter, so I cut the one that came with the bike off from the brake lever. This isn’t optimal since it looks a little wonky, but it works great!

If you ride bicycles a lot, you probably understand gearing and when shifting is necessary, and are willing to put a fair amount of your own effort into your ride from time to time. In this case a mid-drive system might be for you. With the right PAS (pedal assist) setting, the energy supplied by the motor feels very natural. The additional throttle is almost counter productive in this case since it just interferes with the natural pedaling process. Ride it like a bicycle and the mid-drive is a beautiful thing!

This is what I discovered yesterday during my test ride. On PAS setting 4 (of 9, the way I programmed the system) I could easily maintain 15mph and would shift down a gear or two for the hills. I have 5 more PAS levels to work with if I want to break the sound barrier, but I’ll likely never use more than 5 (which will maintain about 20mph – legal limit on most trails). That said, there will be a flat, straight road with no traffic someday where I’ll see “what she’ll do”, but things get a little scary on a bicycle at that speed, so it can wait.

So, I really like my mid-drive e-bike, and with my new 15ah battery, I’m guessing we could go places. It will be a while before I have a good idea of the actual range with this motor/battery combination. I might even be able to be scientific enough to compare mid-drive and rear hub efficiency using the same battery. That will be interesting. I’m thinking the mid-drive will win since it really requires more pedal input than my rear-hub bikes.

Realistically, all 3 of my e-bikes are fantastic. Build #1 with a rear hub and 21-speeds – perfect. Build #2 with a rear hub and 7-speeds, but a 48 tooth front chainring – amazing! And build #3 with a mid-drive, 9-speeds and a 46 tooth Lekkie NW Bling Ring – phenomenal! Next, how about a 48v 500w Bafang rear hub step-through for my wife. It could happen…

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