RAT Electric Bikes

It’s easy to go out and buy a DIY e-bike kit (rear, front, or mid-drive – doesn’t matter for this discussion) and build an e-bike that is truly awesome. I know, I have three now. BUT at some point your amazing DIY e-bike is going to intersect with the reality of e-bike rules and regulations. Right now federal and state laws are somewhat in harmony:

At the federal level, a 2002 law enacted by Congress, HB 727, amended the Consumer Product Safety Commission definition of e-bikes. The law defined a low-speed electric bicycle as “A two- or three-wheeled vehicle with fully operable pedals and an electric motor of less than 750 watts (1 h.p.), whose maximum speed on a paved level surface, when powered solely by such a motor while ridden by an operator who weighs 170 pounds, is less than 20 mph.” The federal law permits e-bikes to be powered by the motor alone (a “throttle-assist” e-bike), or by a combination of motor and human power (a “pedal-assist” e-bike).

At the Pennsylvania state level (2014 Act 154), “Pedalcycle with electric assist.”  A vehicle weighing not more than 100 pounds with two or three wheels more than 11 inches in diameter, manufactured or assembled with an electric motor system rated at not more than 750 watts and equipped with operable pedals and capable of a speed not more than 20 miles per hour on a level surface when powered by the motor source only.

See also: The PENNSYLVANIA E-BIKE LAW handout

In addition, e-bikes “do not require a certificate of inspection or insurance” and “are afforded ALL of the rights and responsibilities of other bicycles under PA law”.

Well, isn’t that just perfect? I just built (hypothetically speaking of course) a 48v 1000w throttle-only e-bike without pedal assist. Yes, it’s possible and quite simple to do. Where do I fall under federal and Pennsylvania law, and should I care? The answers are, you don’t and yes (you should care)! If and when municipalities catch up with the e-bike craze, there will be consequences. The law is clear and you’ll likely be operating somewhere outside your legal protections. You have been warned…

SO, what to do? For starters, most DIY e-bike kits have a configurable display that allows you to set how much power you’re sending to the motor, and the maximum speed provided by the motor alone. Now that you know the law, use the settings that are deemed legal in the place you are riding. This still might not be enough, but it’s a good start. In places where e-bikes are inspected and registered – not in PA yet – this likely will not be sufficient.

Better is to start out with a ‘legal’ kit. I’m just starting to do research in this area, but these two kits would likely be good options (batteries not included – where have I heard that before?):

Rear-drive: Bafang Rear Wheel 500W 48V Hub Motor Electric Bike Conversion Kit for 26″ Rear Wheel ($387)

Mid-drive: Bafang BBS02 mid drive motor 750w ($480)

For the moment, here are some of your local bicycle regulations (nothing about e-bikes yet):

• You shall not ride on the sidewalk (this is inconsistent with state law)
• You shall not ride in a public place without a bell that can be heard for at least 100 feet
• You shall not ride with both hands off the handlebars
• Anyone in violation of these regulations may be fined $300 and/or go to jail for <90 days (reminds me of an Arlo Guthrie song) [“What were you arrested for, kid? And I said, “Littering.”] classic!

I’m only mentioning these regulations because I think we have a long way to go before e-bike regulations catch up with today’s reality.

Ride safe and ride legally…

Another good reference on what e-bike laws should look like from PeopleForBike.org is their Model Electric Bicycle Law. And my notes for the February 15 meeting with the Doylestown Community Hike/Bike Committee can be found here.

**update**

I met with the Hike/Bike Committee this morning. They understand the need to begin addressing electric bicycles, as well as other electric-assist transportation devices, in the context of multi-user trails in our area. I believe a combination of signage, education, and coordination among the various municipalities associated with our interconnected trail system are needed and will happen as a result of this Committee’s efforts. In this community, we have some time to figure this out. But we can also learn from communities where conflict is already occurring and infrastructure and laws are playing catch-up. I am optimistic, and when confronted with this:

I say “ride on”, have a great day, follow all the same laws your fellow bicycle rider must obey, and you’ll be fine. By being good citizens on our trails, this will never become an issue that requires heavy handed enforcement. Be safe and considerate and it’s all good!

Well, I never thought I would say this, but “I love my Lekkie”. Let me explain. The ‘standard’ chainring shipped with the Bafang BBSHD motor is complete and total junk. It’s pressed steel, it’s heavy and it’s not a narrow-wide design (which helps a lot to keep your chain from derailing). I ordered a different Bafang chainring that was a better design but the offset (the distance between the chainring teeth and the inner mounting surface) was to small, hence the chainring set the chain too far out from center – confused yet? In fewer words, the chain alignment to the rear derailleur sucked. I think that explains it better.

So, what to do? The easy answer; spend more money! I did, and ended up with the 46 tooth Lekkie Bling Ring for the BBSHD motor. It’s $110 (yikes!!) if you buy it from anyone except Lekkie (they want $155) but it’s worth every penny. This is a really well designed chainring and works perfectly on Build #3 where the standard chainring was a disaster. Here’s what the Lekkie looks like installed:

A word of advice when installing your mid-drive motor; don’t cheap out on your chainring. This is an important part of the kit and you’ll need to spend a little bit more, but you’ll have no regrets when you do. I now have two new chainrings I’ll never use and that’s wasteful…

So what about the other chainring? While I was waiting for the Lekkie to arrive, I decided to go with a single chainring on Build #2. I purchased this combo from Amazon and I’m very happy with it. I got a new crankset with a 42 tooth chainring for $45 then purchased a second 48 tooth 104 BCD narrow-wide chainring for $23. Total outlay for crankset and 2 chainrings was $68, and these are well made parts. Here’s the 48 tooth chainring installed on build #2:

I really think running the 48 tooth chainring on the front is going to be too high a gear, but I want to try it out, then switch down to the 42 tooth chainring if necessary.

In a future post, I’ll assess the relative cost and performance differences between mid-drive and rear hub DIY builds, but at the moment it appears everything about the mid-drive kit costs more than a rear hub system. You’ll have to check back at a later date for that comparison as I’m looking at other components that will result in a better rear-hub build than the low-cost (relatively speaking) option I’m currently using for Builds 1 and 2.

**update**

Lekkie Chainring Advice

CHAIN COMPATIBILITY

The Lekkie Bling Ring is compatible with most chains up to 11-speed (known to work with some 12 speeds too). If your chain is not sitting well on the chainring try using a Shimano chain compatible with the number of gears. EG HG-X11 11 Speed. Note if the chain is tight on the teeth do not use.

GEOMETRY

The 42T and 46T offset gives you the best possible chainline without interfering with the motor. However chainstay interference is a big issue in building your bike – the larger the sprocket the closer the chainstay gets so you may need to use a spacer to clear the chainstay.

**update**

I test rode both Builds #2 and 3 yesterday. Build #3, the mid-drive, needs some work. I’m ordering a new chain that’s appropriate for the 9-speed cassette and I have to do some tuning since the pedal-assist system is way too aggressive. I think I know what parameters to tweak so will do that when the new chain arrives and we’ll take ‘er out for another spin.

Build #2 (rear-hub) is phenomenal! I really like the new 48-tooth chainring. The chain alignment is perfect. I can’t use my lowest gears since the rear derailleur contacts the hub motor casing – this is a common problem with the Voilamart rear-hub system. But since the motor puts so much power to the rear wheel, having access to the lower gears is unnecessary. I just adjust the rear derailleur so it can’t contact the hub motor and that’s that. Otherwise the cadence with the 48-tooth front gear is perfect for me. I’m happy…

Just in case you haven’t had a chance to binge-watch JohnnyNerdOut’s videos (here), you might have missed this one:

Where to buy e-bike Motors, Batteries and other components

He gives good advice on where to go to buy your e-bike motors, batteries, etc. I’m including his list below, because I think it’s a good place to start when looking for parts for your DIY project.

https://www.Johnnynerdout.com

https://www.electrifybike.com/

https://nomadcyclespdx.com/

https://em3ev.com/

https://lunacycle.com/

https://california-ebike.com/

https://ebikes.ca/

https://goldenmotor.bike/

I know that some think ‘if Amazon doesn’t sell it, then it’s not worth buying’. But in the case of e-bike kits, you’re better off buying for these other sellers. The prices won’t be significantly different, and you’ll probably get great support for the products they sell. That said, I bought parts from Amazon, eBay, AliExpress, and others for my e-bike builds with mixed results.

I also bought products from e-bike parts suppliers (not on this list) I thought I could trust but their support has been disappointing. From the list above, LunaCycle, ElectrifyBike, and JohnnyNerdOut are the three I’m familiar with and all have been excellent. In fact, I just went back to JohnnyNerdOut for my Lekkie Bling (Chain) Ring. His price was as good as any (not cheap), and I know he’ll deliver and back his products.

PS – If you’re just buying regular bicycle stuff – tools, pedals, cables, seats, handlebars, brakes and brake pads, that kind of stuff – then Amazon is still my go-to bicycle shop on the web. Or support your local bike shop. That works too!

Here’s a good article concerning e-bike batteries, Everything you need to know about e-bike batteries [from a battery engineer] – much of the content below is from Natasha George‘s article. And another, Electric bike batteries explained. For sake of this discussion, we’ll cover 3 topics: Battery design, Cell chemistry, and Range.

Battery design

E-bike battery packs are made up of individual battery “cells”. The most commonly used form-factor of cells in an e-bike battery pack is the 18650, which is classified as a cylindrical cell.

When it comes to batteries, there is a strong correlation between price and quality. Cell Manufacturers: Panasonic, LG, and Samsung have a good reputation in the battery industry for their high quality cells, so paying a premium for these cells is worth it. Question: Does this mean I have to stop buying my e-bike batteries from Amazon? Answer: Probably!

It seems you really don’t know what your getting with most of these ‘budget’ batteries, so paying a bit more for pack that shows which cells they use, from a reputable dealer (not saying Amazon and its vendors aren’t reputable) is probably wise. In the words of JohnnyNerdOut, don’t buy a battery that might be a ‘house burner’. I believe knows what he’s talking about!

Cell Chemistry

Lithium-ion (li-ion) batteries are the best option for e-bikes. Li-ion has several variants of cell chemistry. The most popular ones for e-bikes are Nickel Manganese Cobalt (NMC), Lithium Cobalt Oxide (LCO), and Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP). The metrics to look for when selecting a cell chemistry are:

• Specific Energy: has an impact on range
• Specific Power: how the battery handles high load scenarios
• Safety: does the chemistry have a history of high in-field failures (this is bad!)

There are trade-offs when choosing one chemistry over another, but as we’ve shown in the image below, NMC and LFP are both great options that both offer the best value in terms of performance, price, and safety.

Picking the right battery chemistry has to do with figuring out what matters most to you. Do you want a battery that has a longer range (higher specific energy) but doesn’t have as much power? Or do you want a battery that has a more power (higher specific power) but may not last as long?

Range

The range of a battery pack depends on the amount of energy packed inside of it and is measured in Watt-Hours (Wh). Watt-hours are calculated by multiplying the battery capacity, in Amp-hours, by the battery Voltage.

Doing the math, my 48 volt 14.5 amp-hour battery should give me

14.5*48=696wh, 696wh*(1/20)=34.8miles (round to 35). So why, you might ask, do I get nearly twice that on a 100% charge? Answer: because it depends on bicycle efficiency, bicycle weight, your weight, winds resistance, hills, road surface, temperature, tire pressure, how much you pedal (or don’t), what gears you use, etc., etc.

In Natasha‘s words, “The range that e-bike manufacturers provide should be taken with a grain of salt. That number is generated from tests that are run in perfectly tailored lab conditions. Do you charge any of your electronics in an incubation chamber set at 28° C with a lab-grade charger that applies the perfect current while charging? Yeah, I don’t either. And so, We should assume that the manufacture-specified range is delivered only if the battery is charged and discharged under ideal conditions i.e. not real world conditions.”

Kind of sounds like EPA fuel economy ratings for cars – exactly. Fact: I do a lot of pedaling when I ride my e-bike and really only use the motor for hills and in some cases, acceleration from a stop. That helps a lot to increase my battery range…

For more information about the care and feeding of your e-bike battery, feel free to pop back to my earlier post on the topic: Battery Best Practices. And Natasha has a few more pearls of wisdom to add:

How to charge your e-bike battery to make it last longer

1. The thing that will kill your battery faster than anything else is leaving it charged at elevated temperatures. If it’s 80 degrees outside and you have your e-bike fully charged, move it indoors where it’s cooler and try to drain the battery as soon as possible.
2. Charge your battery at room temperature as often as possible.
3. When sourcing an e-bike battery charger, the slower the charge rate the better. For example, if you have a 2-Amp charger, and your battery is a 14 Ah battery pack, you are charging at 14 Ah / 2-Amps = 7-hours. This is a nice, slow charge which will certainly improve the longevity of your battery pack. Avoid charging at rates that are faster than 2-hours for a full charge.

Bottomline: Choose LFP or NMC chemistry, slow charge, avoid storing or charging in hotter temperatures, and leave the battery at around 30% charge if you don’t plan on using it for a while.

See also: Ebike charging for long Battery life

Freewheels versus cassettes, chainring dimensions and BCD (I’ll explain), e-bike chains versus regular bicycle chains, mechanical versus hydraulic disc brakes, disc brake pads, handlebar dimensions (I’ll explain this too in a moment)… this is harder than servicing computers because computer manufacturers mostly comply with industry standards and form factors. Bicycle manufacturers, on the other hand, are all over the place. But, on the flip side, I’m a ‘problem solver’, so this sort of chaos actually makes the sport of e-bike building interesting for me!

So what’s happening? First, my Build #3 mid-drive is popping the chain off in the high gears. Chain alignment problem I think, so I’m sorting that one out with a different chain ring, rear cassette (changing out the 9-speed cassette for a 7-speed cassette plus shifter), and e-bike-rated chain. We’ll see how that goes and if all the effort is for naught. (Note: It was – for naught)

Build #2 is getting a new controller, display, and throttle (arrived yesterday and will be installed today). I also removed the front derailleur and (warped) chainring and will install the new chainring/crank arriving today. So two lessons learned here:

1. The 52 tooth chain ring I purchased first doesn’t fit. The chain stay on this frame extends out too far and the chain stay interferes with the large chainring. I’m not sure how I would have tested this in advance of buying the large chainring, but apparently I can only use chainrings with smaller outer dimensions, OR one with a different offset. SO the new chainring coming today will have both and we’ll see how that works out. Note: for an e-bike, having three speeds on the front chainring isn’t needed due to the extra power provided by the motor, so eliminating the complexity of that and the associated derailleur seems/seemed like a good idea. (And it was – a good idea and worked perfectly! Success…)
2. When buying a chainring, modularity seemed like a good idea, so I’m buying a crank with a 104 BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) bolt spacing that allows me to substitute other chainrings that conform to this bolt pattern. Whether or not this new crank and chainring system works for my application, I’ll find out soon enough. The crank needs to clear the pedal assist sensor, and the chainring needs to clear the chain stay. Fingers crossed! It just might work out… PS – There are MANY crank bolt patterns and sizes, so this particular lesson took a while to figure out which was best for my application.

Replacing the rear cassette on Build #3 will happen today, so we’ll see how that goes. It has been a while since I have had to do this. I was rebuilding freewheels all the time when I was racing bicycles at Penn State, but that was a while ago. The technology has changed a bit. (Failure: The new cassette was narrower than the original and I didn’t have the right spacers, so I’m sticking with the original 9-speed cassette and shifter)

And the last thing I’ll cover for today’s post is the handlebar (and handlebar stems). I like ‘adjustable’ handlebar stems and am having good luck with this one. But there are two dimensions when buying a handlebar stem to be aware of. First is the handlebar diameter 31.8mm (1.25”) at the center of the handlebar where it attaches to the handlebar stem, and second is the front fork stem diameter 28.6mm (1-1/8″). Get out your trusty digital caliper and make sure you know what your specific measurements are. Also, how wide do you want your handlebars to be? I purchased this handlebar ’cause it was a really good price and it fit the stem I already had. Two problems:

1. It was wider than I had anticipated so I cut two inches off either end with a pipe cutter. After a bit of cleanup, the handlebar was (almost) perfect.
2. Here’s the ‘almost’ part. The taper from the center of the handlebar continues out some distance (due to the wider handlebar design), making installation of things like handlebar-mounted bells and lights problematic. Many of these accessories are designed for a certain handlebar outer dimension. Still, I like this handlebar and I think it’ll work fine, but I’m having to adapt to its design now that it has been cut down for my application.

Regarding brakes, I’m still figuring this one out. Rim brakes (Build #3), mechanical disc brakes (Build #2), a mix of rim and hydraulic disc brakes (Build #1), disc size, brake pad composition, etc. are all being used. I’ll have to get back to you on this. It gets complicated…

**update**

And what’s with this “narrow-wide” chainring thing?

“The term “narrow wide” chainring describes the shape and profile of the individual teeth driving the chain. Each tooth alternates thickness, narrow wide narrow wide, all the way around the ring. With an old school traditional chainring, all the teeth would be considered narrow with small differences in thickness between brands.” (source)

The sole purpose of the narrow wide chainring is chain retention. The narrow wide tooth pattern keeps the chain from moving left to right and eventually popping off the chainring while riding.

And there’s more: Did you know that there are different chains depending on how many sprockets your freewheel or cassette has? I hadn’t really given that much thought, but now I have to. Some chains, like the Zonkie I use a lot, say they’re made for 6, 7, or 8 sprockets, and I find they work well for my 7-sprocket rear-hub e-bikes. However, Build #3 is a mid-drive that uses the existing 9-sprocket cassette which means I should be using a chain like this one, designed for 9 sprockets. Plus, when running a mid-drive kit, a chain designed to handle the abuse a mid-drive can dish out is essential. This particular 9-speed KMC chain looks like it’s up to the task. (And it was. It shifts well, is quiet, and stays on the Lekkie narrow-wide chain ring really well. This seems to be the perfect chain for my application!)

Well, that didn’t go as well as I had hoped. I tested a few different PAS levels (0-4). I had set the controller to 9 levels, so didn’t go beyond 4 because I was having some other technical issues. What I learned with this mid-drive Bafang motor is that the PAS level effects the power output for both the pedals and throttle. I think this is a good design, but just takes some getting used to. Also, the optional shift sensor works great to reduce power from the motor during shifting. This also is a great feature and should significantly improve drive line wear.

The problem I’m having though is the chain jumps off the front chainring when shifting into the top 3 high gears (smallest outer gears). I’m running a 9-speed cassette and I’m convinced that the chain angle between these gears and the chainring is such that the chain simply cannot track on the chainring so it pops off. But what to do?

• add spacers to the Bafang motor so it lines up better with the rear cassette – this is a lot of effort and it might not work
• replace the default chainring with one that doesn’t go in so close to the chain stay – I need to research this option to see what’s available, and it still might not work
• replace the rear cassette and shifter, and maybe the chainring too for better alignment – besides, who really needs 9 gears on the rear cluster anyway? – more research required
• go with a single speed rear gear, or something that has a lot better alignment with the chainring – this would put a lot more load on the motor on PA hills – not a good idea
• adjust chain tension via the rear derailleur by changing derailleur angle and/or removing chain links – need to explore this option, but will hold off until I decide what to do about the chainring
• do nothing – they say this is always an option – I would adjust the derailleur so it can’t go down to the 3 highest (smallest) gears – doable but not optimal

Other than the chain jumping the chainring, I think I’m going to like this mid-drive system once I get used to it. A little more tinkering and I think I’ll have this sorted out. In the meanwhile, my rear-hub e-bike rocks and I have enjoyed all 500 miles I put on it since building it last year…

**Update**

I opted for the ‘buckshot’ approach versus the scientific method, meaning I’m changing a bunch of things at the same time to sort out my chain derailment problem, including:

• new 7-speed 12-28 tooth cassette and 7-speed shifter – this change also lets me use my motor-cut-out brake lever on the rear brake
• new e-bike rated KMC chain
• new 44 tooth Aluminium BBSHD Chainring – 186mm diameter & 7mm offset – this replaces a 46 tooth chainring with a 19mm offset. In theory (if the offset is measured the way I think it is) this would move the chainring 12mm further away from the chainstay (original chainring has a 19mm offset and chain derails off the outside of the chainring in the 3 high gears with a 9-speed cassette).

Word has it that the standard steel chainring that comes with the BBSHD motor is ‘junk’, so it’s likely that just changing out the chainring with a higher quality one would have fixed the problem.

My next update will report just how well these changes worked to fix my problem. Stay tuned…

The only two terms listed above that I would want to change are ‘cogset’ and ‘shock absorber’. Although ‘cogset’ is technically accurate, I would refer to this gear cluster as either a ‘cassette’ or ‘freewheel’. There is a difference as explained here. Also, ‘shock absorber’ is what a front fork might have if it’s designed with a telescopic or suspension components (as most ‘mountain bikes’ are). There’s a good description of fork technologies described here.

One other item to note regards front and rear brakes. So often these days, and especially when we’re talking about e-bikes, you’ll see disc brakes which are discs mounted on the wheel hubs with brake calipers that provide the friction necessary to stop the bicycle. Disc brakes are often preferable to older rim brakes due to their stopping power, though when building your own e-bike, you have the choice to keep the older rim brakes or upgrade to discs.

Regarding brakes, my Build #1 bike uses a disc on the front (where the majority of your stopping power will be) and a rim brake on the rear. Build #2 uses disc front and rear, and Build #3 uses rim brakes front and rear. It’s totally you choice what’s going to work best for you and your bike.

So now let’s add electric bicycle components to our list. I’m going to borrow a few terms from Rad Power Bikes’ extensive glossary found here:

Ah

Abbreviation for “amp-hour”, which is a unit of electric charge that can be delivered by a battery.

controller

A large, black rectangular component that acts as the “brain” of the bike. The controller allows electrical components to communicate and controls the motor.

direct drive motor

A type of motor that has no gear reduction. It is more efficient at higher speeds, slightly slower when starting, and slightly quieter when riding. See also “gear reduction” and “geared motor.”

ebike

Short for “electric bicycle”—a bicycle that can use electricity, stored in a battery, to propel the bicycle.

geared hub motor

A geared motor located on the hub. See also “geared motor,” “gear reduction,” and “hub motor.”

hub motor

A motor located at the center of a wheel. Contrast with “mid-drive motor.”

hydraulic brake

A brake system in which hydraulic fluid, not a mechanical cable, is used to transmit the brake force from the brake lever to the caliper to slow the bike.

LCD display

The display on most models that shows various bike and trip details.

lithium-ion battery

An advanced, rechargeable battery technology that has a high energy density (a lot of capacity in a compact battery), no memory effect (the battery won’t be damaged with frequent use/charging), and low self-discharge (the battery will maintain its charge when not in use).

mechanical brake

A brake system in which braking force is transmitted by a cable mechanism.

mid-drive motor

A motor located at the center of a bike, typically between the pedals. Compare to “hub motor.”

motor cutoff

A feature that cuts off all power to the motor when a brake lever is squeezed.

PAS

Short for “pedal assist system,” a system that, when selected at the display, deploys power to the motor based on the rider’s pedaling.

pedal assist

A system that speaks to the motor to provide power based on the rider’s pedaling.

pedal assist sensor

The electronic device used to detect a rider’s pedaling. See also “pedal assist.”

regenerative braking

A method for converting part of the braking energy into a small amount of battery capacity.

Schrader valve

A common type of pneumatic tire valve.

step-through

A frame design that allows a rider to mount the bike with a low step in front of the seat rather than swinging a leg over the seat/ back of the bike.

throttle

A part at the handlebar that allows the rider to engage motor power without pedaling.

torque

A rotational force. Used to describe tightening a component or hardware to a specific value.

volt

Abbreviated “V.” The unit of electrical potential energy, or the difference of potential that would drive one amp of current against one ohm of resistance.

watt

A measurement of power.

watt hour

A measurement of energy used to describe battery capacity.

Now for a brief tutorial about power ratings of e-bike motors and why it’s important to make sure you’re buying the right motor and battery for your application. We spoke before about rear hub versus mid-drive motors. There’s a cost difference, and as I have yet to prove, there might be a difference in how the e-bike performs. I promised to let you know my thoughts in this regard once the weather warms a bit. But for this discussion I want to focus on the technical aspect of motor and battery choice.

Let’s start with what led to my choice of 48v 1000w systems. Power, range and cost were my three primary considerations. 36v (less power) and 52v (too expensive) fell off the list. 750w wasn’t much less expensive than 1000w, and I didn’t think I needed to go to 1500w+ for my application. What I didn’t factor into my decision was the ‘legality‘ of 1000w versus 750w systems. The might be a problem later on if they start enforcing power limits here.

Then when it came to batteries, I was just looking for a battery that had a good reputation and met my motor specs. I’m getting really good range out of my Joyisi 12.5ah battery, so feel that was a good choice for Build #1. For not that much more money the Joyisi 14.5ah battery is going on Build #3. Where I’m pushing 65 miles per 100% charge on the 12.5ah battery with the rear drive motor I’m hoping for even better range with the 14.5ah battery and the mid-drive motor. We’ll see and I’ll report my findings here. Keep in mind that I do a lot of pedaling when riding my e-bikes, so as they say, “your mileage WILL vary”.

I had also mentioned in a previous post about the importance of charging your battery to only 80% for the majority of its charge cycles. My rationale was to prolong battery life. Also, never store your battery for a long period of time (like over the winter) at either full charge or fully discharged. Either condition is bad for the battery. So, back to battery capacity, if you agree with usually charging your battery to 80%, then it makes sense to buy a higher capacity (aka 14ah or more) to get the best range when not charging to 100%. That’s my rationale and I’m stickin’ to it…

Motor Advice

How to Select A Motor For An Electric Bike

Battery Advice

How to choose the right battery for your electric bike

Build #2, my beautiful RAT bike, is going through a transformation. I wasn’t happy with throttle and controller setup, controller placement on the bike, or the front derailleur and crank set, so I tore those parts off and am waiting for new parts to arrive from AliExpress in China (and waiting, and waiting – parts are cheaper when ordered directly from China, but patience is a MUST). I’m also swapping the battery I got with the mid-drive kit for the Joyisi battery on Build #2 since the mid-drive battery, although a similar spec, is a slightly smaller form factor and should permit me to mount the controller bag above it, under the top tube. That’s the theory which will be easy to test since I already have these parts.

One other useful factoid is I’m trying out a single-speed 48 tooth front chain ring. This eliminates the need for the front derailleur (a good thing), but it’s also a fairly big gear. My rationale for making this change is to allow me to continue to pedal at higher speeds. It might turn out to be too much gear, but it’s one of those things that I need to try out to know for sure. I expect it’s going to work perfectly – always the optimist!

Regarding Build #3 (my amazing Gary Fisher mid-drive build), all I have left to do is adjust my new brake pads and brakes, and the rear derailleur, mount a new 48v 14.5ah Joyisi battery arriving next week, and I’m done. The mid-drive motor counted up perfectly. I mounted brackets and crank arms properly without paying attention to how they should actually be mounted (that was just dumb luck, but I never tighten things down until I know things have been done correctly, so no harm done).

Also, something I learned with this build is you can’t perform wire management in a COLD garage! Most of the connectors have itty bitty wires and water-tight connectors. Trying to plug these together when the plastic is cold is impossible. Move your bicycle into a warm space so the plastic parts are more pliable, then connect these wires. You’ll thank me for this advice by not bending and braking your connectors. Also, be sure to properly route the cables BEFORE connecting them. Disconnecting and reconnecting these fragile parts is just not a good idea.

Also coming from China* is a 2-pin adapter cable (*estimated between Tue. Mar. 1 and Mon. Apr. 25 – patience!) that connects a 6v light output from the Bafang motor to a front headlight I purchased from JohnnyNerdOut. Why the headlight didn’t come with this specific connector I don’t know, but sorting this out with the right adapter is an easy fix, and allows me to practice my soldering skills…

** Update **

The 2-pin headlight adapter arrived and has been wired into the system on Build #3. Also, after a bit of an ordering disaster (I checked one of my suppliers off my future orders list), I purchased a Lekkie chainring from JohnnyNerdOut (still very much on my supplier list) that I’ll talk about in a future post. The photo shown above has this new chairing installed.

** Update **

Yup, yet another update! If you ever decide to build your own e-bike, you’ll realize the building process never ends. First, my chains jumps a bit on the rear cluster in the highest gears (smallest diameter cogs on the rear gear cluster). Thinking this might still be a minor chain alignment problem, I added a 2mm spacer to the Lekkie chain ring and it made all the difference in the world! Chain alignment is perfect now… And

I also decided to upgrade my C961 display with a 850C display. Below I show pictures of both, and I think the change will be worth the ~$85 the upgrade set me back. Not only is the new color display a more attractive and functional than the original black and white display, but I’m hoping it packs a few new features the old display was lacking, like being able to power on my headlight. For those interested in learning more about this BBSHD-compatible display, this video covers the topic really well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12OLFqD1bFY.

Before

After

And a picture of my handlebar with this new display installed:

Oh, and by the way, when I was visiting my son recently, he had installed a GUB smartphone mount on his Rad e-bike. I thought it looked like a really good product for a very reasonable price, so of course I had to have one. Here’s a picture of the GUB. It’s spectacular!

I’ll keep this post somewhat brief, but need to address two pressing issues when it comes to moving e-bikes around, and keeping them from walking off without your permission.

Transport

E-bikes weigh more than regular bicycles because of the additional weight of the motor and battery. The Ride1up Roadster V2 mentioned in a previous post is the lightest I have seen at 33 pounds, but e-bikes can weight up to 70 pounds. Not only do you need to factor this additional weight into how you plan to move the bike around, but also how you intend to transport it. The first thing I do when transporting an e-bike is remove the battery (if possible). But more important than that is to understand the weight limitations of your bicycle rack. I have a rack designed for regular bicycles (this one with a load capacity of 80lbs). This ‘hitch mount platform’ is fine for a single e-bike (with battery removed), but is pretty marginal for two e-bikes. Consider the actual weight experienced by the rack when you go over a bump (like a speed bump). This could well exceed the rated capacity with the 40-pound bikes on the rack.

Better is to purchase a rack that’s actually designed for e-bikes. They are a LOT more expensive, but might be necessary for your application. Here’s a link that provides some sage advice:

https://ebikeshq.com/car-racks-for-electric-bikes-trikes-fat-tire-ebikes/

Four racks from their list;

Sport Rider hitch mounted rack 

Saris Freedom Bike Hitch

Thule EasyFold XT 2 Hitch Bike Rack

YAKIMA – HoldUp EVO 2″ Hitch Mounted Tray Bike Rack, 2 Bike Capacity

Security

E-bikes are expensive and have become a favorite target for individuals who might not have your best interests in mind. I am not an expert on various lock choices (though these folks seem to be). All I want to point out is that your precious e-bike WILL disappear if you don’t take proper precautions. I carry a cable lock whenever I plan to leave my e-bike unattended, even for a short period of time. You should do to same…

Having waded through all the videos from the last two posts, here are my ‘Top 5 Affordable E-Bikes’, plus a DIY that probably trumps them all (in order of least expensive to most expensive):

Ride1up Roadster V2 $945 (free shipping)

Reminds me of my bicycle racing days with the Penn State team. I always rode a single speed bike during early season training. Except my training bike was A LOT more expensive than this. This e-bike looks like great fun and nobody is going to know it’s an e-bike. Perfect!

Gen 3 Flex $1,600 (free shipping)

Appears to be a solid package for the price.

RadCity 4 $1600 (shipping extra)

Appears to be an all-round solid package and a good value from a company that has a great reputation for building quality e-bikes. I also like the battery modularity meaning I can swap the battery out for an off-the-shelf battery rather than being locked into a vendor’s proprietary battery design/configuration.

Aventon Level $1800 (free shipping)

Another solid package for a price that won’t break the bank.

Magnum Metro S $1900 (shipping appears to be included)

Another great package at not a too terrible price point.

So with all these great options, why bother adding yet another to the list? Answer: because you’ll notice that every one of these ‘reasonably priced’ e-bikes use rear-hub motors. I don’t really have anything against rear-hub motors because that’s all I have had the opportunity to ride to date, until my mid-drive build is complete. But the reality is, mid-drive motors cost more than rear-hub motors, so if you’re going to build a ‘low-cost’ e-bike, rear-hub motors are the way to go.

Number 6 – you have seen this one before:

Contact JohnnyNerdOut and ask him to build you the Norco Scene step-thru e-bike he built for his in-laws. Including JohnnyNerdOut’s ‘build fee’, the whole thing should set you back about $2100 (plus tax and shipping). For this you get a custom built step-thru mid-drive e-bike that’s lighter than all but Roadster above. Note: JohnnyNerdOut would need to quote the actual price of this build. My number is a best guess, but I expect he would be delighted to build one of these beauties for you…

So that’s it. I really hope these last few posts help you decide which e-bike is best for your needs. Other than the Roadster piquing my interest, I am totally sold on building my own e-bikes. But I know this isn’t for everyone, so buying one already made is the next best thing!

Update: This e-bike from Ride1Up just popped up on my radar and appears to be a really good value at $1,045 (includes free shipping). It’s the Core-5. Check it out…

Update: Here’s another ‘reasonably priced’ e-bike I just discovered. This design is considered a ‘mid-step’ (not quite a step-thru). I like this one because it’s as simple as an e-bike can be. Note though, this is a single speed bicycle which means it’s not ideal for hilly rides. I like it because it’s simple, and for some, it might just be the perfect e-bike. Here it is: The RadMission 1 for $1200.

Need a really well designed step-thru? I would stick with Rad and consider the RadCity Step-Thru 3 Electric Commuter Bike for $1600.