RAT Electric Bikes

With the added weight of a motor and a battery, plus beefier frames found on some e-bikes, it makes sense that one should consider purchasing a bicycle rack designed for this additional weight. Then there’s the matter of tire size. The e-bikes I build have a minimum tire width of 1.95″ to 2.25″, though many factory-built e-bikes now have ‘fat’ or ‘plus-size’ tires that can be 3.5″ or wider. All this is to say that you need to carefully consider what type of rack is necessary to carry your beloved e-bike(s) safely and securely.

Some time ago I purchased this rack for my regular bicycles:

MaxxHaul 50027 Hitch Mount Bike Rack Platform for 2 Bikes

If I’m carrying a single e-bike with battery off, I load the bike onto the inner rack and I’m OK with this. Two e-bikes, no way! This rack cost $110 and is has worked well for years, but is designed for lighter weights and WILL fail if one were to load two e-bikes onto it.

Having researched this topic recently, here are the options I found that appear to be suitable for carrying e-bikes:

Kuat NV 2.0 ($850)
Thule EasyFold XT 2 Hitch Bike Rack ($850)
Thule T2 Pro XTR 2 Hitch Bike Rack ($800)
YAKIMA OnRamp E-Bike Hitch Bike Rack ($700) – includes ramp

Perhaps you noticed that these racks can get pretty darn pricy. I think that’s because the manufacturers figure you’re spending so much for your e-bike that these prices won’t be considered outrageous. Well, I’d like to go on record to say I think these prices are exorbitant. OK, I said it, but I’ll still probably pay their price because I want a rack that can do the job…

So here are a couple images of the two racks I’d consider buying:

Thule EasyFold XT 2 Hitch Bike Rack

Unfolded

And folded

Pretty nifty. The description says it has a removable loading ramp. Also, I can’t tell if it has locks built in to secure your e-bikes like the Yakima rack has.

And this one, which is the one I would probably actually buy:

YAKIMA OnRamp E-Bike Hitch Bike Rack

This rack includes a ramp and Yakima’s “SKS (Same Key System) locks included to secure bikes to rack and rack to vehicle receiver”. I have always liked Yakima’s products from roof mounting systems for kayaks and bicycles to hitch-mounted bicycle racks. I’m sure this rack is no exception to Yakima quality and would be a good rack for the job at hand.

In closing, there is one other rack I was recently asked about. That is, one that carries only a single e-bike. As mentioned, I use my old bicycle rack for this purpose, but it has no ramp AND it’s a pain to load the heavy e-bike onto the inner rack. The question then, “is there an e-bike rack designed for a single bike that’s easy to load?” And this is what I found:

Rola Convoy 1 Bike Platform Rack for 1-1/4″ Hitches – Model # 59307 ($265),

or for a little more money, this one:

Kuat Transfer V2 Bike Rack for 1 Bike – 1-1/4″ and 2″ Hitches – Model # KU64FR ($349)

Bottom line: Your e-bike is likely to be a fairly significant investment. I think it makes good sense to spend the money necessary to protect that investment. Buying a good rack designed for e-bikes and a security system (next post) that keeps it from disappearing when you’re not watching is the right thing to do.

Thanks for listening…

** Update **

I just watched this YouTube video from boltonebikes.com (aka Area 13) that covers four more e-bike racks you might want to consider. Here’s the link:

Things to know BEFORE you buy a RACK for your ELECTRIC BIKE

Enjoy!

I know, you’re thinking “I have ridden bicycles all my life, and once you learn to ride a bicycle, you never forget.” Well I’m here to tell you, depending on how your e-bike is configured, you might need to learn a few new tricks. In this post I’m going to talk about PAS (pedal assist system) and throttles. Let’s start with pedal-assist.

Pedal Assist

Pedal assist on an e-bike means when you start pedaling, the electric motor starts adding power to the rear wheel. However, this added power might be instantaneous or delayed. This matters because you need to anticipate this additional power or the lack thereof when starting out. Add to this reality the PAS level you have set (if you even have the ability to set it). Let’s say I have a 5-level PAS system and I’m at level 1. In this case, you are going to add more pedal power to get going from a stop. Or, let’s say I have been riding along at level 5 for a bit and come to a stop. In this case, if you forgot you were at level 5 and start out, you might be in for a shock as your bicycle launches itself across the intersection.

I’m being a bit dramatic in this example, but suffice to say that when riding an e-bike you need to know how your system works, stay alert, and use the setting(s) appropriate for a given situation. I have also resorted to walking, not riding, my e-bike across crosswalks. Too many times I tried to start out by pedaling and the motor takes over and I end up careening across the intersection. It’s MUCH safer and predictable to just walk across, then get back on your bike on the other side (after dialing in the correct PAS setting).

That’s all I’m going to say about PAS. I’m getting used to how PAS works and I like the concept, but it has taken a while to learn how to set it so it’s more of an assist than a nuisance (or danger).

Throttles

Next, let’s talk about throttles. I’m a left-hand thumb throttle, versus a right-hand wrist throttle kind of guy. Granted, as an ex-motorcycle rider, you would think traditional wrist throttles would be preferred. But with bicycles, I put more of my weight on my wrists and hand-grips and having a wrist throttle can be problematic. I’d rather rest my hands on the hand-grips and use my thumb to increase or decrease power as needed. However, if you tend to sit more upright when pedaling your bicycle, then the right-hand twist throttle just might be your cat’s meow.

As mentioned in a previous post, one might ride a rear hub e-bike a little more like a motorcycle (more throttle, less pedal power), and a mid drive e-bike more like a bicycle (more pedal, less throttle power). At least that’s exactly what I’m finding when I ride either bike. On the mid drive e-bike, I rarely use the throttle and tend to adjust the PAS system for a given riding condition and plan to pedal more. Yet on the rear hub e-bike, I do less gear changing and supplement my pedal power with power from the electric motor.

Neither throttle design is better or worse than the other, just different, but it’s something to consider when renting, buying, or building an e-bike.

Living in Bucks County is wonderful! We have Fall colors, rivers and steams, covered bridges, canals, historic barns, and so much more. We also have lots of trails for hiking and biking. As mentioned previously, not all trails welcome electric bicycles (or even bicycles at all in some cases). And the problem is, you won’t really know which do and which don’t allow e-bikes. To reiterate what I said before, as long as your e-bike is a Class 1 or 2, assume you have all the rights and privileges of a regular pedal bicycle and you should be fine.

After doing a bit of research, I have come up with a list of resources to help you discover that new trail in your area. I’ll provide the list first, then highlight some of the trails I’m either familiar with or I’m interested in learning more about.

The List:

• •Bucks County Trails Program
• •Great Rides Lehigh and Bucks County
• •Bucks County Area Hiking And Biking Trails
• •Hit the Trails: Bucks County Bike Trails Worth Exploring
• •Doylestown Community Hike & Bike System
• •Doylestown Borough Bike & Hike Trails
• •Trails Near Buckingham, PA
• •Great Rides L/BC – Princeton Loop

Trails where bicycles (and legal e-bikes) are allowed are usually classified as multi-use paths. Multi-use paths are typically flat, wide trails with improved surfaces that appeal both to walkers and joggers, as well as users on wheels such as cyclists and skaters. Most multi-use pathways are physically separated from motor vehicle traffic, and can be within the road right
-of-way, such as those in the Doylestown Bike and Hike. Another example of a multi-use path is the Delaware Canal Towpath, towpath trails run along the banks of a river or canal. Bucks County is estimated to have over 250 miles of multi-use paths.

The other place electric bicycles are allowed to ride is On-Road Bike Lanes and Routes.
Bicycle routes and on-road bicycle lanes in the County are currently fairly limited. On-road bicycle lanes are lanes dedicated to bicyclists and marked accordingly. This is an area I can see great room for improvement in our area as we explore ways to reduce vehicle emissions and traffic on our urban centers and communities.

Lately, I have been exploring the Doylestown Hike & Bike System, and for the most part find it easy to navigate from my home in Buckingham Township all the way to 309 via the 202 Parkway Trail. I’m on lightly traveled streets through Doylestown, but then have various choices for connecting to the system to get to Del Val University, New Britain via the Neshaminy Greenway Trail, Central Park, etc.

One trail improvement I hope to see really soon is a connecting bike trail between Central Park and S Easton Road via New Britain Rd. The surface condition of New Britain Rd. is horrendous (for cars or bicycles) and it would be easy to add a bike lane in the area. This connector appears to be planned (actually says ‘in progress’), but has yet to be done. In the meantime, to get to Central Park I’ll come in the back way from Lower State Rd.

Here’s another map of our area that shows existing and proposed trails in the Doylestown Hike & Bike System.

Top 5 local trails worth exploring (source):

1) Delaware Canal Towpath

Five trails from 7.1 miles to 18.9 miles round trip

11 Lodi Hill Road, Upper Black Eddy, PA

There are five loop trails that make up the 165-mile D&L Trail, which is part of the National Heritage Corridor. The trails meander through towns and parks, where you can get exercise and a history lesson. On the trail is Washington Crossing Historic Park, where riders can view graves that date from the Revolutionary War as well as the Thompson Neely House that served as a field hospital during the war.

2) Tyler State Park

10.5 miles

101 Swamp Road, Newtown, PA

The trails at this state park are wide and paved for easy travel throughout the picturesque park. Picnic tables dot the paths for breaks, and the trails are clearly market at intersections. The park also offers horseback riding trails, a disc golf course, boating, and fishing.

3) Peace Valley Park

6 miles

264 Creek Road, New Britain, PA

This path winds through woods and over a reservoir around the man-made Lake Galena. Benches, picnic areas, restrooms, and playgrounds are available around the lake as well as a nature center. The park also has boating rentals and fishing docks. It is a popular spot for bird watching. Be on the lookout for some of the 250 bird species that have been spotted there.

4) Nockamixon State Park

2-mile paved path, 10-mile mountain bike trail

1542 Mountain View Dr., Quakertown, PA

A paved bike path begins at the Lake Nockamixon marina, but it’s not a loop, so save some energy for the return trip! A more adventurous 10-mile trail system for mountain bikes winds around the east side of Haycock Cove. The trail heads can be found off Tower and South Park roads and PA 563. The park also has camping, swimming, hiking, picnicking, fishing, wildlife watching, horseback riding, and hunting.

5) Doylestown Central Park

8.5 miles

425 Wells Road, Doylestown, PA

The park is the end point of the US 202 Parkway Trail that extends to Welsh Road in Montgomeryville with additional connections to the Doylestown Hike and Bike System. The paved path can be accessed at the parking lot at the New Britain Road entrance to the park, which also boasts Kids Castle play area, an amphitheater for outdoor performances, a fitness trail, a sensory trail, and nature areas where park goers can observe native plant and animal species.

When the weather warms up a bit, there’s no excuse keeping me from getting out and riding my e-bike. I find drivers in the area to be respectful of bicyclists when passing and at intersections and crosswalks. And ALWAYS wear a helmet ‘just in case’, and obey ALL traffic laws…

**

Here’s some additional light reading for those interested in future plans for bicycle enthusiasts in our community:

• Newtown Rail Trail Phase I Brochure (PDF)
• Turk Park to Barn Plaza Shopping Center (PDF)
• Upper Bucks Rail Brochure (PDF)
• Upper Neshaminy Creek Brochure (PDF)
• Neshaminy Creek Brochure (PDF)
• Bucks County Trails (PNG)
• Newtown Rail Trail Frequently Asked Questions (PDF)

Ride On!

** Update **

Here’s another useful link I just learned about:

Loop Trails for Hikers and Bikers

And you can download a PDF of loop maps here:

** Update **

I just saw this in the news: The Upper Southhampton Tamanend Park and Pennypack Rail Trail have been linked. Must explore!

You wouldn’t think of leaving home in your car without a spare tire, jack, lug wrench, roadside emergency kit with flashlight, blanket, screwdrivers, plyers, duct tape, air pump, jumper cables, etc. would you? Oh, you have AAA roadside service so you don’t need this stuff. Got it… Yet I do carry all this and more in my cars ‘just in case’, and in some cases I’m prepared to help someone else out who didn’t think all this was necessary. Besides, how often do our modern cars break down or blow a tire. Not often, but still.

Try getting roadside service for your e-bike. I don’t believe it exists (yet). So you’re on your own and you might just as well a) learn how to fix things that break, and b) carry the necessary tools and supplies when you ride. It doesn’t cost much, doesn’t weigh much, and is easy to carry. You just need to think through what you’re going to need and how to use it. Hopefully this post will help with that.

Let’s start with the basics. This image shows most* of the items I would plan to carry on a normal 10-20 mile bicycle ride:

From left to right, a spare tube that’s the correct size and type for your bike, a set of plastic tire levers (you can get by with 2 but I like to carry 3), lightweight spoke wrench, multi-tool designed for bicycles (the one shown above is different than the link since it doesn’t appear this particular Topeak multi-tool is available anymore), tire pump (the image below shows this type of pump mounted to the frame so it doesn’t need to be carried in the tool bag), Velcro hook & loop straps (from this Duramax 840-piece kit), some ’emergency’ cash, surgical gloves, and a basic first aid kit. What’s missing from the image above and will be added shortly to my kit is a lightweight Gerber multi-tool with scissors and pliers and a small rag for cleanup after repairs.

All told, this kit set me back about $100, plus the cost of a frame or seat bag (budget $20 for this) to carry everything in. Below are additional images of various bags I own, an exploded view of my Topeak multi-tool, and a frame-mounted air pump. Also not shown in the image above is a 20-amp fuse that I carry should I blow the fuse between the battery and controller, and a spare key to remove the battery if that becomes necessary.

Before we get off this topic, there are a few more items I think are important. When I ride, I take with me a hydration pack, but without the hydration bladder. I use it as a lightweight backpack to carry the following items:

1. A water bottle
2. A granola bar or two
3. A cell phone with a good charge – doesn’t do much good if the battery’s dead though my e-bike batteries include a USB charging port so I could/should carry a USB charging cable which could save my bacon some day
4. A printed copy of my driver’s license and medical cards along with an emergency contact phone number, some cash and a mask or two – keep these in a weather-proof bag
5. On some trips I’ll carry a cable and lock so I can lock the bike up if I need to leave it unattended
6. I’m also going to start carrying a bottle of Slime for a quick (albeit messy) flat repair, which I hope I never have to use!

Here’s an image of the hydration pack I have been using. There are many options out there, but if you don’t own one, here’s one to consider: Hydration Backpack

I think I included everything I find useful, however, if price weren’t a consideration, I might be inclined to invest in some additional ‘tools’ such as these:

Wolf Tooth Master Link Combo Pliers $32

Topeak Ratchet Rocket Multi-Tool $41, or

Topeak Ratchet Rocket Lite NTX+ $85

KNIPEX Tools 5-Inch Mini Pliers $52

But alas, price is a consideration and I’ll find less costly ways to skin cats (maybe I shouldn’t use that expression with this audience – sorry), even if I need to carry a bit more weight in my repair kit.

As I conclude this post, I want to direct your attention to a few YouTube videos that I found informative when it comes to creating your personal bicycle repair kit. Here they are, and thanks! I hope this has been helpful…

What you need in a Bicycle Repair Kit!

What’s in a Bikepacking Repair Kit

Bikepacking and Bicycle Touring tool kit

On March 21, 2023 I’ll be delivering an ‘All About Electric Bicycles!’ presentation to members of the Center for Learning in Retirement program at Delaware Valley University. Below is a link to the presentation .pdf file. If you have questions or comments, please contact me on my personal email account at glenmaxson@gmail.com. Thanks, and enjoy!

Just a reminder, Build #3 is my first mid-drive build, which I embarked on largely based on JohnnyNerdOut’s recommendation. Johnny recently released a YouTube video that describes the difference between rear hub and mid-drive systems, and why you should care. Check this out before continuing: Hub motor or Mid Drive Motor Buyers Guide : Which system is right for you? OK, now that you watched his video, you’ll understand what comes next.

As mentioned previously, Build #3 uses the Bafang mid-drive system. Here’s a picture of what that system looks like in its final incarnation:

Once you have sorted everything out – correct chainring, proper chain line alignment, proper chain, and a quality shifter* – you’re ready for a test ride. First, let me say that you don’t ride a mid-drive e-bike the same way you ride a rear hub bike. Like Johnny says, ‘ride a mid-drive e-bike like you would a regular bike’. This means changing gears when necessary to minimize stress on the chain, cassette, rear derailleur components, and the motor itself. In comparison, a rear-hub system can handle a little more abuse (aka less shifting) since it’s not loading the chain and rear derailleur/gears.

*Note: I couldn’t find a ‘quality’ 9-speed shifter, so I cut the one that came with the bike off from the brake lever. This isn’t optimal since it looks a little wonky, but it works great!

If you ride bicycles a lot, you probably understand gearing and when shifting is necessary, and are willing to put a fair amount of your own effort into your ride from time to time. In this case a mid-drive system might be for you. With the right PAS (pedal assist) setting, the energy supplied by the motor feels very natural. The additional throttle is almost counter productive in this case since it just interferes with the natural pedaling process. Ride it like a bicycle and the mid-drive is a beautiful thing!

This is what I discovered yesterday during my test ride. On PAS setting 4 (of 9, the way I programmed the system) I could easily maintain 15mph and would shift down a gear or two for the hills. I have 5 more PAS levels to work with if I want to break the sound barrier, but I’ll likely never use more than 5 (which will maintain about 20mph – legal limit on most trails). That said, there will be a flat, straight road with no traffic someday where I’ll see “what she’ll do”, but things get a little scary on a bicycle at that speed, so it can wait.

So, I really like my mid-drive e-bike, and with my new 15ah battery, I’m guessing we could go places. It will be a while before I have a good idea of the actual range with this motor/battery combination. I might even be able to be scientific enough to compare mid-drive and rear hub efficiency using the same battery. That will be interesting. I’m thinking the mid-drive will win since it really requires more pedal input than my rear-hub bikes.

Realistically, all 3 of my e-bikes are fantastic. Build #1 with a rear hub and 21-speeds – perfect. Build #2 with a rear hub and 7-speeds, but a 48 tooth front chainring – amazing! And build #3 with a mid-drive, 9-speeds and a 46 tooth Lekkie NW Bling Ring – phenomenal! Next, how about a 48v 500w Bafang rear hub step-through for my wife. It could happen…

It’s easy to go out and buy a DIY e-bike kit (rear, front, or mid-drive – doesn’t matter for this discussion) and build an e-bike that is truly awesome. I know, I have three now. BUT at some point your amazing DIY e-bike is going to intersect with the reality of e-bike rules and regulations. Right now federal and state laws are somewhat in harmony:

At the federal level, a 2002 law enacted by Congress, HB 727, amended the Consumer Product Safety Commission definition of e-bikes. The law defined a low-speed electric bicycle as “A two- or three-wheeled vehicle with fully operable pedals and an electric motor of less than 750 watts (1 h.p.), whose maximum speed on a paved level surface, when powered solely by such a motor while ridden by an operator who weighs 170 pounds, is less than 20 mph.” The federal law permits e-bikes to be powered by the motor alone (a “throttle-assist” e-bike), or by a combination of motor and human power (a “pedal-assist” e-bike).

At the Pennsylvania state level (2014 Act 154), “Pedalcycle with electric assist.”  A vehicle weighing not more than 100 pounds with two or three wheels more than 11 inches in diameter, manufactured or assembled with an electric motor system rated at not more than 750 watts and equipped with operable pedals and capable of a speed not more than 20 miles per hour on a level surface when powered by the motor source only.

See also: The PENNSYLVANIA E-BIKE LAW handout

In addition, e-bikes “do not require a certificate of inspection or insurance” and “are afforded ALL of the rights and responsibilities of other bicycles under PA law”.

Well, isn’t that just perfect? I just built (hypothetically speaking of course) a 48v 1000w throttle-only e-bike without pedal assist. Yes, it’s possible and quite simple to do. Where do I fall under federal and Pennsylvania law, and should I care? The answers are, you don’t and yes (you should care)! If and when municipalities catch up with the e-bike craze, there will be consequences. The law is clear and you’ll likely be operating somewhere outside your legal protections. You have been warned…

SO, what to do? For starters, most DIY e-bike kits have a configurable display that allows you to set how much power you’re sending to the motor, and the maximum speed provided by the motor alone. Now that you know the law, use the settings that are deemed legal in the place you are riding. This still might not be enough, but it’s a good start. In places where e-bikes are inspected and registered – not in PA yet – this likely will not be sufficient.

Better is to start out with a ‘legal’ kit. I’m just starting to do research in this area, but these two kits would likely be good options (batteries not included – where have I heard that before?):

Rear-drive: Bafang Rear Wheel 500W 48V Hub Motor Electric Bike Conversion Kit for 26″ Rear Wheel ($387)

Mid-drive: Bafang BBS02 mid drive motor 750w ($480)

For the moment, here are some of your local bicycle regulations (nothing about e-bikes yet):

• You shall not ride on the sidewalk (this is inconsistent with state law)
• You shall not ride in a public place without a bell that can be heard for at least 100 feet
• You shall not ride with both hands off the handlebars
• Anyone in violation of these regulations may be fined $300 and/or go to jail for <90 days (reminds me of an Arlo Guthrie song) [“What were you arrested for, kid? And I said, “Littering.”] classic!

I’m only mentioning these regulations because I think we have a long way to go before e-bike regulations catch up with today’s reality.

Ride safe and ride legally…

Another good reference on what e-bike laws should look like from PeopleForBike.org is their Model Electric Bicycle Law. And my notes for the February 15 meeting with the Doylestown Community Hike/Bike Committee can be found here.

**update**

I met with the Hike/Bike Committee this morning. They understand the need to begin addressing electric bicycles, as well as other electric-assist transportation devices, in the context of multi-user trails in our area. I believe a combination of signage, education, and coordination among the various municipalities associated with our interconnected trail system are needed and will happen as a result of this Committee’s efforts. In this community, we have some time to figure this out. But we can also learn from communities where conflict is already occurring and infrastructure and laws are playing catch-up. I am optimistic, and when confronted with this:

I say “ride on”, have a great day, follow all the same laws your fellow bicycle rider must obey, and you’ll be fine. By being good citizens on our trails, this will never become an issue that requires heavy handed enforcement. Be safe and considerate and it’s all good!

Well, I never thought I would say this, but “I love my Lekkie”. Let me explain. The ‘standard’ chainring shipped with the Bafang BBSHD motor is complete and total junk. It’s pressed steel, it’s heavy and it’s not a narrow-wide design (which helps a lot to keep your chain from derailing). I ordered a different Bafang chainring that was a better design but the offset (the distance between the chainring teeth and the inner mounting surface) was to small, hence the chainring set the chain too far out from center – confused yet? In fewer words, the chain alignment to the rear derailleur sucked. I think that explains it better.

So, what to do? The easy answer; spend more money! I did, and ended up with the 46 tooth Lekkie Bling Ring for the BBSHD motor. It’s $110 (yikes!!) if you buy it from anyone except Lekkie (they want $155) but it’s worth every penny. This is a really well designed chainring and works perfectly on Build #3 where the standard chainring was a disaster. Here’s what the Lekkie looks like installed:

A word of advice when installing your mid-drive motor; don’t cheap out on your chainring. This is an important part of the kit and you’ll need to spend a little bit more, but you’ll have no regrets when you do. I now have two new chainrings I’ll never use and that’s wasteful…

So what about the other chainring? While I was waiting for the Lekkie to arrive, I decided to go with a single chainring on Build #2. I purchased this combo from Amazon and I’m very happy with it. I got a new crankset with a 42 tooth chainring for $45 then purchased a second 48 tooth 104 BCD narrow-wide chainring for $23. Total outlay for crankset and 2 chainrings was $68, and these are well made parts. Here’s the 48 tooth chainring installed on build #2:

I really think running the 48 tooth chainring on the front is going to be too high a gear, but I want to try it out, then switch down to the 42 tooth chainring if necessary.

In a future post, I’ll assess the relative cost and performance differences between mid-drive and rear hub DIY builds, but at the moment it appears everything about the mid-drive kit costs more than a rear hub system. You’ll have to check back at a later date for that comparison as I’m looking at other components that will result in a better rear-hub build than the low-cost (relatively speaking) option I’m currently using for Builds 1 and 2.

**update**

Lekkie Chainring Advice

CHAIN COMPATIBILITY

The Lekkie Bling Ring is compatible with most chains up to 11-speed (known to work with some 12 speeds too). If your chain is not sitting well on the chainring try using a Shimano chain compatible with the number of gears. EG HG-X11 11 Speed. Note if the chain is tight on the teeth do not use.

GEOMETRY

The 42T and 46T offset gives you the best possible chainline without interfering with the motor. However chainstay interference is a big issue in building your bike – the larger the sprocket the closer the chainstay gets so you may need to use a spacer to clear the chainstay.

**update**

I test rode both Builds #2 and 3 yesterday. Build #3, the mid-drive, needs some work. I’m ordering a new chain that’s appropriate for the 9-speed cassette and I have to do some tuning since the pedal-assist system is way too aggressive. I think I know what parameters to tweak so will do that when the new chain arrives and we’ll take ‘er out for another spin.

Build #2 (rear-hub) is phenomenal! I really like the new 48-tooth chainring. The chain alignment is perfect. I can’t use my lowest gears since the rear derailleur contacts the hub motor casing – this is a common problem with the Voilamart rear-hub system. But since the motor puts so much power to the rear wheel, having access to the lower gears is unnecessary. I just adjust the rear derailleur so it can’t contact the hub motor and that’s that. Otherwise the cadence with the 48-tooth front gear is perfect for me. I’m happy…

Just in case you haven’t had a chance to binge-watch JohnnyNerdOut’s videos (here), you might have missed this one:

Where to buy e-bike Motors, Batteries and other components

He gives good advice on where to go to buy your e-bike motors, batteries, etc. I’m including his list below, because I think it’s a good place to start when looking for parts for your DIY project.

https://www.Johnnynerdout.com

https://www.electrifybike.com/

https://nomadcyclespdx.com/

https://em3ev.com/

https://lunacycle.com/

https://california-ebike.com/

https://ebikes.ca/

https://goldenmotor.bike/

I know that some think ‘if Amazon doesn’t sell it, then it’s not worth buying’. But in the case of e-bike kits, you’re better off buying for these other sellers. The prices won’t be significantly different, and you’ll probably get great support for the products they sell. That said, I bought parts from Amazon, eBay, AliExpress, and others for my e-bike builds with mixed results.

I also bought products from e-bike parts suppliers (not on this list) I thought I could trust but their support has been disappointing. From the list above, LunaCycle, ElectrifyBike, and JohnnyNerdOut are the three I’m familiar with and all have been excellent. In fact, I just went back to JohnnyNerdOut for my Lekkie Bling (Chain) Ring. His price was as good as any (not cheap), and I know he’ll deliver and back his products.

PS – If you’re just buying regular bicycle stuff – tools, pedals, cables, seats, handlebars, brakes and brake pads, that kind of stuff – then Amazon is still my go-to bicycle shop on the web. Or support your local bike shop. That works too!

Here’s a good article concerning e-bike batteries, Everything you need to know about e-bike batteries [from a battery engineer] – much of the content below is from Natasha George‘s article. And another, Electric bike batteries explained. For sake of this discussion, we’ll cover 3 topics: Battery design, Cell chemistry, and Range.

Battery design

E-bike battery packs are made up of individual battery “cells”. The most commonly used form-factor of cells in an e-bike battery pack is the 18650, which is classified as a cylindrical cell.

When it comes to batteries, there is a strong correlation between price and quality. Cell Manufacturers: Panasonic, LG, and Samsung have a good reputation in the battery industry for their high quality cells, so paying a premium for these cells is worth it. Question: Does this mean I have to stop buying my e-bike batteries from Amazon? Answer: Probably!

It seems you really don’t know what your getting with most of these ‘budget’ batteries, so paying a bit more for pack that shows which cells they use, from a reputable dealer (not saying Amazon and its vendors aren’t reputable) is probably wise. In the words of JohnnyNerdOut, don’t buy a battery that might be a ‘house burner’. I believe knows what he’s talking about!

Cell Chemistry

Lithium-ion (li-ion) batteries are the best option for e-bikes. Li-ion has several variants of cell chemistry. The most popular ones for e-bikes are Nickel Manganese Cobalt (NMC), Lithium Cobalt Oxide (LCO), and Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP). The metrics to look for when selecting a cell chemistry are:

• Specific Energy: has an impact on range
• Specific Power: how the battery handles high load scenarios
• Safety: does the chemistry have a history of high in-field failures (this is bad!)

There are trade-offs when choosing one chemistry over another, but as we’ve shown in the image below, NMC and LFP are both great options that both offer the best value in terms of performance, price, and safety.

Picking the right battery chemistry has to do with figuring out what matters most to you. Do you want a battery that has a longer range (higher specific energy) but doesn’t have as much power? Or do you want a battery that has a more power (higher specific power) but may not last as long?

Range

The range of a battery pack depends on the amount of energy packed inside of it and is measured in Watt-Hours (Wh). Watt-hours are calculated by multiplying the battery capacity, in Amp-hours, by the battery Voltage.

Doing the math, my 48 volt 14.5 amp-hour battery should give me

14.5*48=696wh, 696wh*(1/20)=34.8miles (round to 35). So why, you might ask, do I get nearly twice that on a 100% charge? Answer: because it depends on bicycle efficiency, bicycle weight, your weight, winds resistance, hills, road surface, temperature, tire pressure, how much you pedal (or don’t), what gears you use, etc., etc.

In Natasha‘s words, “The range that e-bike manufacturers provide should be taken with a grain of salt. That number is generated from tests that are run in perfectly tailored lab conditions. Do you charge any of your electronics in an incubation chamber set at 28° C with a lab-grade charger that applies the perfect current while charging? Yeah, I don’t either. And so, We should assume that the manufacture-specified range is delivered only if the battery is charged and discharged under ideal conditions i.e. not real world conditions.”

Kind of sounds like EPA fuel economy ratings for cars – exactly. Fact: I do a lot of pedaling when I ride my e-bike and really only use the motor for hills and in some cases, acceleration from a stop. That helps a lot to increase my battery range…

For more information about the care and feeding of your e-bike battery, feel free to pop back to my earlier post on the topic: Battery Best Practices. And Natasha has a few more pearls of wisdom to add:

How to charge your e-bike battery to make it last longer

1. The thing that will kill your battery faster than anything else is leaving it charged at elevated temperatures. If it’s 80 degrees outside and you have your e-bike fully charged, move it indoors where it’s cooler and try to drain the battery as soon as possible.
2. Charge your battery at room temperature as often as possible.
3. When sourcing an e-bike battery charger, the slower the charge rate the better. For example, if you have a 2-Amp charger, and your battery is a 14 Ah battery pack, you are charging at 14 Ah / 2-Amps = 7-hours. This is a nice, slow charge which will certainly improve the longevity of your battery pack. Avoid charging at rates that are faster than 2-hours for a full charge.

Bottomline: Choose LFP or NMC chemistry, slow charge, avoid storing or charging in hotter temperatures, and leave the battery at around 30% charge if you don’t plan on using it for a while.

See also: Ebike charging for long Battery life